Pars

Happy Birthday to the both of yez!!!

First of all, the thread is bogus to begin with. The HD201s are what, $20? If you had heard them and could offer an opinion one way or another, then that is one thing. Posting that you heard these were pretty good is a waste of bandwidth. There's another site that is much more suitable for this lack of SNR... http://www.head-fi.org. Might be more what you are looking for.

Ooops, misread this as the cord for the surge protector/outlet strip being the one that shorted out. Since it was the boombox cord, the curling iron, etc. are immaterial, other than if the cord rested on the barrel while it was hot and got damaged insulation that way. Otherwise, shut in a door/chair rolled over it, etc. are the most plausible explanations.

Unless you want to join bannedfromheadfi, I would suggest you reread your welcome PM. Since you only offer anecdotal experience, not actual, I'd suggest you read more and STFU.

Thanks!

Hmm, the only drawings I have are for the end panels. Nothing for the top.

Looks great Nate! Want to fix my side holes for me? Circle hole cutter tech fail here! Also, do you remember the distances on your tube holes, and how big did you go on these? My brother loaned me a large step bit (looks strangely like the one you picture), that goes up to 1 1/8", but I was thinking about using a 1 1/4" hole saw I have. Regarding the power transformer, I don't really notice mine getting hot. The heater rectifiers get hot though, and make the front of the transformer hot as well.

Maybe the curling iron and hair straightener overloaded the cable and melted some of the insulation? I know you say they weren't on at the time, but they presumable were on at one time (else they wouldn't be plugged into it). Rolling over it with a chair, etc. is also plausible. And I would not suspect the house wiring, though checking to ensure the outlets are wired correctly wouldn't be a bad idea. You can get plug in testers for this at Home Depot, etc.

That's something that should have been in the "discrete output stage". Probably the biggest single benefit of a discrete stage is to handle the I/V, preferably without feedback (IMHO). Not sure why they tout a discrete stage that is basically a buffer. Oh I guess it is also a preamp with volume control. EDIT: for $299, a lot of value here though... you can't have everything at a low price

Opamp I/V however: # I/V conversion: Burr Brown OPA-2134

From reputation, the 2465s are supposedly the best analog scopes ever made. They are also one of the Teks which have a proprietary IC in them that can go bad, rendering the scope useless. Only supply of said IC is a donor unit. And it may also be bad. Too bad Tek listened to their accountants and shut down their IC fab

So how long did you have to play your Rickenbacker thru these for break-in? Used to play with a bass player who used one of those... always loved the sound of those basses

Tektronix 465b oops, no color, no markers, etc. No digital. Great basic '80s SS scope.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1CvIzRezOM

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Happy Birthday!!!

Also, can you explain the choice between grounding the output transformers or connecting them to the cathode? I think I have the jumpers correct for the LED on the cathode, but I will need to double check them. As for your suggestion in post 305 regarding the higher CCS current and using the resistor to ground on the cathode rather than the LED(s), would you also recommend switching the transformer connection in conjunction with this? I'll have to go back thru this thread and the emails to find where you discussed this previously.

Listening-wise, I disliked the higher CCS bias, preferring the lower bias by quite a bit. I can perhaps understand the higher bias on Grados... and on rock. Amp is clearer on the lower bias with AKGs. Here are some measurements of various LED combos on the cathode LED: 2xRed L R Iled 12.6mA Vled 3.52Vdc 3.5Vdc Vplate 181.4Vdc 169.7Vdc rectangular blue Iled 12.6mA Vled 2.98Vdc 2.99Vdc Vplate 165.5Vdc 154.4Vdc blue Iled 12.6mA Vled 3.0Vdc 3.01Vdc Vplate 169.1Vdc 156.7Vdc

Fitz, I think the consensus was to stick with the 75 ohm original CCS. Doug threw a wrench in the works (it is his works, so I guess he can do that ) by suggesting another way of getting to the new 2.5-3V grid or cathode bias voltage by using the other CCS (56 ohms, or 221 || 75 ohms) and switching to the resistor grounded cathode jumper setting. See Doug's post 305 for more details. Currently I am playing around with the cathode LEDs (2x red and 1x blue) to try to get in the 2.5-3V range.

So is the 3.5V I am seeing too high? This is with the original 75 ohm CCS. I'll have to measure the plate voltage. I also tossed in a blue LED I have a bunch of and it was at ~3.2Vdc. And was it ever bright; made the mistake of putting my head right over it

Measurements were relative to ground. The schematic shows no direct connection to the cathode, but I suppose if the cathode is at +3.5Vdc and the grid floats? I would think the 1M resistor to gnd on the grid might have something to say about that but I dunno. If I measured relative to the cathode, it would show -3.5Vdc I would guess. The grid is connected to input jack->pot->resistor to gnd->series resistor->grid (pins 5 & 6).

^ Good idea! I'll be sure to check into it, though I'm not sure I could afford them. Then again, can I afford not to? BTW, the grid is only connected to the input (audio) and is at 0Vdc.

I put two of the red LEDs in series, and am getting 3.5Vdc in circuit. I'm guessing this may be a bit high up the curve? I will also try some blue LEDs I have. The red LEDs measured ~1.6Vdc on my meter's diode test each. I'll do both listening and RMAA on both the 2x Red and 1x Blue. The 3.5Vdc is on the LED stack or the cathode. I'll see what the grid is at.

I wonder if those would work in my Von Schweikerts, in place of the stock Vifa D25AG35? Hmmm.

Regarding the options for the production version, I like 6DJ8s/6922s, but had to LMAO when you posted the $400 pair of tubes link. I had a pair of those (actually 2) and liked them a lot. I sold one pair, the other was returned as one tube was microphonic... but I digress. For Option 3, would it be possible to place the tube socket patterns for both the 6DJ8 and 6J6 coincidental and let the bulider decide by which sockets they populated. I will confess to not looking at the socket patterns before asking this, and also not seeing what pin differences there are. Option 4 sounds interesting as well.