Pars

Happy Birthday!

^ This. RIP Whitney

Shelly, You could try ohming the tweeter out without disconnecting it, and compare it to the good one. That might tell you enough to decide how to proceed with these. Parts Express or Madisound are good places to look if you need a replacement driver. If you replace it with the same thing (if they are still available) you might only need to replace the bad one. That is what I did on my speakers.

I blew a tweeter on my Von Schweikerts when I was messing around with a DEQ2496 and it wasn't putting anything out. I would agree with others that connection problems would be the first thing I would check out. If you have a multimeter (DMM) and can disconnect the tweeter you could ohm it out. Blown would probably be open on the meter.

VT4C? http://www.vt4c.com/shop/program/main.php Anyone done business with them? I have some Yarbo RCAs that I got through them via another member, but have never ordered directly from them myself. I was going to buy some knobs from them, and have sent them 2 emails (per their order instructions) but have not heard anything back from them (in 3 days). Just wondering whats up with them... I need 6 small knobs (17-19mm or 3/4") and don't feel like spending $6-$8 apiece for Kilos from Digikey for this application. They need to match as well. Chris

^ Thanks! gee, there are threads on HC I haven't read

This thread delivers!

^ I think KG does this (50 ohm matching) between his home components, or at least I recall he mentioned that he had done it. He also had an interconnect design that was sold by a guy on head-fi a few years ago that had something to do with termination and matching. Can't remember what they were called.

Awesome... awaiting the unveiling of your first headphone amp... the Dhik Head

Interesting. Yes, mine does behave rather strangely. From 2 to c (wiper to ground), it jumps up to 1K or so with very little rotation, then to 8k and then to 15-19k for much of the rotation, sometimes going down. Once past 3/4 rotation or so, it increases fairly linearly to max of 44k (50k pot). On the input (1) to wiper, it does actually go above the max pot value (to 55k was the highest I saw). I remember Morsel on hf said these things work somewhat like stepped attenuators... They sure work and sound good for a pot though... think of the beautiful beautiful music... <<ducks and runs like hell>>

Hehe. Great job Naaman! And congrats Steve!

Hmm, I'll have to ohm my 50k out tonight per your post at the linked thread. I don't recall seeing anything unusual in mine, and the values you showed don't seem to make sense. I actually liked their curve vs. an Alps.

You mean like the 2P2500/2511 pots? Interesting, I wonder why? Electrically they should be indentical to an Alps RK27.

Happy Birthday!

If you can find them (and for a reasonable price), the Trompeter wrench crimp connectors are supposed to be one of the best BNCs available. http://www.newark.com/trompeter-electronics/upl20-5/rf-coaxial-bnc-plug-str-75ohm-crimp/dp/90B4196?in_merch=Popular%20RF/Coaxials They've apparently raised their pricing...

Happy Birthday Jeff!

I actually kind of like Schitt; kind of self-deprecating. Golden Ear just sound pretentious as fuck to me. YMMV

Really stupid name though... GoldenEar? Really?

^ What Steve said...

XLRs aren't 110 ohms either.

As Craig shows clearly, you really need to think of S/PDIF as a system. Changing out only the cable is probably a crap shoot. The transmit and receive circuitry/jacks and the cable make up the system. It is not a given that all 3 are done correctly...

Happy Birthday!

Looks like you guys had a blast... wish I could have made it. And Mike, looking good, glad your recovery is progressing well!

Nice! We need pics of the CD player

Your measurements or theirs? I know you don't like Jocko much (and I'm not sure what I think), but SC was one that he always said lied thru their teeth on their datasheets... http://www.diyhifi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=284&p=5709&hilit=Scientific+Conversions#p5709