Pars

Pics might help... I hope the wires are color coded or you marked which one went where. Helps to keep things in phase.

These don't meet many of your criteria, but I'll throw them out anyhow... Von Schweikert VR-33s. http://www.vonschweikert.com/techspecs/1.php I've had a pair of Von Schweikert VR-4 Gen IIs for a number of years and have been pleased with them. I wouldn't mind moving up in the line, but I can live with these. They are balanced, throw a huge soundstage with good imaging, and sound very good even when you aren't in the sweet spot. One advantage of the VR-33s is that they are designed to be placed close to the wall. Yes, they don't have a lot of wood, etc. which you had said you wanted, but for the reasons listed in the link above, the money has been put into the drivers and not the cabinet work (veneer, etc.). These are 50" tall, with the tweeter 37" off the ground, so should work well with the chair, etc. Just thought I'd throw those out there

I was waiting for the first hf Darwin award nominee...

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday Colin! I owe you some beers BTW...

Looks like a Pass Labs case. (Aleph P, etc.).. nice job

Happy Birthday Steve!

He's a Cavalli shill... among other things

Glad to hear it was nothing serious Dan!

Happy Birthday Ed!

Yeah, the one you are using should be just fine.

These two would be good as well: wrench crimp (for RG174 coax) http://www.newark.com/trompeter-electronics/ubj26-5/rf-coaxial-bnc-bhd-jack-str-75ohm/dp/06C4325?Ntt=ubj26 solder http://www.newark.com/trompeter-electronics/ubj27/rf-coaxial-bnc-straight-75ohm-solder/dp/96B2669?Ntt=ubj27 both are insulated and rated for 4GHz

Anything further from anyone? I haven't heard of anyone with the lil'knight GB boards discussing building those either. I may take another look at my previous GB boards (didn't buy any of the newer ones).

Happy Birthday!

^ This. RIP Whitney

Shelly, You could try ohming the tweeter out without disconnecting it, and compare it to the good one. That might tell you enough to decide how to proceed with these. Parts Express or Madisound are good places to look if you need a replacement driver. If you replace it with the same thing (if they are still available) you might only need to replace the bad one. That is what I did on my speakers.

I blew a tweeter on my Von Schweikerts when I was messing around with a DEQ2496 and it wasn't putting anything out. I would agree with others that connection problems would be the first thing I would check out. If you have a multimeter (DMM) and can disconnect the tweeter you could ohm it out. Blown would probably be open on the meter.

VT4C? http://www.vt4c.com/shop/program/main.php Anyone done business with them? I have some Yarbo RCAs that I got through them via another member, but have never ordered directly from them myself. I was going to buy some knobs from them, and have sent them 2 emails (per their order instructions) but have not heard anything back from them (in 3 days). Just wondering whats up with them... I need 6 small knobs (17-19mm or 3/4") and don't feel like spending $6-$8 apiece for Kilos from Digikey for this application. They need to match as well. Chris

^ Thanks! gee, there are threads on HC I haven't read

This thread delivers!

^ I think KG does this (50 ohm matching) between his home components, or at least I recall he mentioned that he had done it. He also had an interconnect design that was sold by a guy on head-fi a few years ago that had something to do with termination and matching. Can't remember what they were called.

Awesome... awaiting the unveiling of your first headphone amp... the Dhik Head

Interesting. Yes, mine does behave rather strangely. From 2 to c (wiper to ground), it jumps up to 1K or so with very little rotation, then to 8k and then to 15-19k for much of the rotation, sometimes going down. Once past 3/4 rotation or so, it increases fairly linearly to max of 44k (50k pot). On the input (1) to wiper, it does actually go above the max pot value (to 55k was the highest I saw). I remember Morsel on hf said these things work somewhat like stepped attenuators... They sure work and sound good for a pot though... think of the beautiful beautiful music... <<ducks and runs like hell>>

Hehe. Great job Naaman! And congrats Steve!

Hmm, I'll have to ohm my 50k out tonight per your post at the linked thread. I don't recall seeing anything unusual in mine, and the values you showed don't seem to make sense. I actually liked their curve vs. an Alps.