Pars

Fuck WallStreet. What a bunch of cunt pussies. I know, doesn't make sense, but whatever....

Congrats to your sister! PBP hard? Heh...

For the Gilmore dynamic V2 I built (on Justin's PCB), I did some adapter boards and used 31DQ10 Shottky diodes in place of the monolithic bridges (which I think are the same bridges used here). These use a Mill-Max 90 degree pin and plug right into the monolithic bridge footprint. I would think these could be adapted to most any discrete rectifier diode assuming the room was there to accommodate them.

I've noticed this one a few times. When in New Content mode, and reading a thread, if I hit the New Content again, I get Sorry, there is a problem Please wait 1 seconds before attempting another searchError code: 1C205/3 Very nice job on the upgrade Todd! It does seem faster and for the most part works very well.

Cheers Matt!

Happy Birthday!

Paid, thanks! BTW, did not include an address, but I think you have mine from the pair of multiamp boards.

Those look like they would work for the V1 PCB (in the proper 12V coil voltage), and are considerably cheaper ($2.31 10 or more, vs. $4.05 25 or more for the Omrons). Contacts are silver alloy with gold alloy overlay. Dimensionally they look very close and should work. Not sure if the Omrons have any advantages to warrant the price difference? Are Omron more reliable? I know they have been in the relay game for a long time.

Yep, this has to be the most confused/confusing GB I've seen. From simple concept to kitchen sink... EDIT: it was suggested in a pm that I might want to elaborate on what I find so confusing. I don't really feel the need to, but posts 283-290 should pretty much sum it up

This would never happen on postjack's forum

Happy Birthday!

I just use the ones from Harbor Freight. Not up to Kevin's standards ($$$, ), but they work fine for what I need. They are often on sale for < $20.

Thanks Kerry. I had thought of using something like a Tread regulating to 12V off of the main amp PSU 15-20V. Since the v1 board uses dual latching relays, I'm not certain how to calculate the current requirements of potentially 16 relays. Max coil current (12V) is 16.7mA from the relay datasheet, so absolute worst case would be around 270mA for 16 relays all switching at the same time. Maybe I will need to do a separate PSU for the attenuator so as not to load the amp PSU. p.s. I went back thru the thread and looked at your setup in post 208 which makes things clearer. Also had wondered what the 3 pin jumper was for, and found the post regarding that (which makes sense... DUH )

The Arduino Uno you reference above is MD'd. The 782-A000073 is the listed replacement and seems to be the newer equivalent. Is this the only thing, other than a rotary encoder(s) needed to control the attenuators? Does the Arduino board supply the power to the attenuators, or do I need to accommodate them with the amp or accessory PSU? Sorry, new to this. Thanks in advance for any pointers!

Yes, 0.1% thin film was my target resistor. The IRC/TT PFC was my initial target. I have had to go with the Vishay TNPW for many of the values. I was also going to look at the Panasonic ERA series from Digikey as well. Kevin, it looks like you are running traces in between the pads on the board pdf I looked at for the V2, so I could see where going smaller on the resistors could be a problem. Hopefully the kids will keep stocking reasonable sizes such as 1206. A newer IRC series they advertised on Mouser comes in 0805 as the largest package. I'm not sure what size the caps were on two of the PSU daughterboards in the Panasonic plasma I have, probably 0402 or so, but they were awfully damn small when I fixed it.

Thanks Kerry. The calculator values as I have them using either 100K or 1M input matches what you had (E96), other than RT which is 10K in yours. The multiamp doesn't have an input to ground resistor, though most of Kevin's amps do. I had wondered whether this one should actually have one as you mentioned, as it does have low input impedance when using the bipolar THAT chips. I'm using FETs in mine, but thought I would set the digital attenuator up in case I were to use the bipolar. A number of the thin film IRC/TT values are not stocked by Mouser (both for the 25K and the 10K). I have found most if not all of the values, but many are Vishay TNPW instead. The 1.87K is a problem (KOA Speer only), and the 6.0R isn't available (6R04 is in a 1%). I'll post the part numbers from both Mouser and Digikey once I have them ironed out. Is the V2 board set up for 1206? It seems like availability is much better the smaller you go. 0805 seems to hit most of them, as does 0402 , which seems silly small. I've worked with 0805 before and they aren't too bad.

Looking at Kerry's previous 10K resistor values BOM and comparing to amb's calculator, I had some questions. Here is Kerry's listing Input Z = 10K 562R RS0 2 169k RP0 2 1k1 RS1 2 82k5 RP1 2 2K05 RS2 2 38k3 RP2 2 3k65 RS3 2 16k9 RP3 2 6K04 RS4 2 6k65 RP4 2 8k45 RS5 2 1k87 RP5 2 9k76 RS6, RS7 4 255R RP6 2 6R00 RP7 2 10K RT 2 From amb's calculator, I had a couple of differences, but I'm not sure I set it up correctly as far as input impedance for the multiamp, etc. With Rload = 1M with Rload = 10K I also ran it with Rload as 100K, which might be more realistic. Results were the same except for an 11.0K Rt

I had gotten a Technicolor router/modem from them initially but it was in bridged mode (I presume... Airport wouldn't work plugged into Ethernet port 1). Since I was getting more throughput with my Airport/Arris combo, I never went further trying to set it up. The phone didn't work initially either.

Is this the case with the group buy boards?

Also, is there a schematic for this around?

Is it still an issue if using FET input? I believe the 1st BOMs were for 10K? I presume the Rt termination resistor = 10K is what I am looking for?

We're on Comcast in Chicago, but have triple-play. What would the recommended voice modem be for us? Arris TM822? We're still using a previous-gen Airport Extreme for a router. I have a Comcast X-1 class router (Cisco something or other), but kind of wanted to keep using our own router. I'm actually using the previous Arris 622 modem (IIRC, might be a 722) which doesn't get us our full speed. Apparently with any of the Comcast-supplied routers, you cannot put them into bridge mode yourself... Comcast has to do it. And they apparently default to their non-bridged configuration if they reset, requiring another phone call. If any of this is incorrect please correct me.

I was just looking at the 24.3K BOM and Mouser, and it appears that Mouser doesn't stock 6 of the resistor values anymore (in the IRC/TT PFC 1206). If anyone has already worked through this problem, let me know. Also, I assume that this version of the attenuator (Kerry group buy, 24.3K impedance) would work fine with the Multiamp? Timely, I know Chris

Would changing to discrete input diodes, perhaps even Schottkys (31DQ10?) help for this?

RIP Kenny and Omar I grew up as a huge Raiders fan during that time frame.