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sorenb

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Everything posted by sorenb

  1. sorenb
    Exquisite Miloz, care to reveal.the two month process?
  2. sorenb
    @Gepardcv: Thanks for pointing that out. Have added that to the singles (Number of SETS!) ....so in the sheet it states "Number of SETS!" above the column, please check your numbers and sign. Thanks everybody.
  3. sorenb
    I dont know about other GBs, but this one seems huge ... And would require a lot from mwl168 ...repacking and stuff....how about the GB pays for dr gilmores and mwl168 pcbs and call it a day?
  4. sorenb
    @mel168: happy to help out! Can everybody put a date at the right most column to give mwl168 a chance to see when someone has checked their numbers?
  5. sorenb
    @insanity: should be fixed, thought that I gave everybody edit acess ...apparently not
  6. sorenb
    Heres and online copy of the latest overview from MWL168; I hope I got everyone right (please check) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GWDWwLfsIDtwn1HB-x76lS6WyWwLd5lwsORFKiUuuEQ/edit?usp=sharing If someone whats to participate please add your alias by first adding a blank line above the "END" (I guess the SUM will continue to work that way). /S
  7. sorenb
    Just a heads up! I asked Kevin to do a split version of both the Golden Reference HV without the Bias supply, and with the big caps be off board for direct chassie mounting. Also asked for a split version of GR LV, and asked Kevin to do a Bias Supply that have both PRO and NB. Finally I asked Kevin to do all boards less than 2U(80mm) in width The HV PSU has always been made of two positive PSUs in series, so the only difference between a +/-HV and two +HV in series will be the PCBs are cut in two. In rgrds to LV PSU, Kevin has done a real complementary negative PSU for the GR LV, but according to Kevin there are no advantage/disadvantage to use two postive LVs in series to get +/- LV. So as far as I can see, the positive single PSU boards gives everybody more fleksibility in terms of how to mount in a chassie, without any real disadvantage (apart from a bit of extra wire). I am pretty sure that Kevin can be pursuaded to do a 'usual' LV (78/7915 type) for those who prefere that to the Golden Reference LV. I suggest that the GB offers either the full PSU (HV/LV/Bias/caps onboard) or Single HV (caps offboard), single LV, Bias(w. PRO & NB)
  8. sorenb
    turning pure utter shit into green, sounds like your on to something
  9. sorenb

    HV delay

    sorenb replied to nopants's topic in Do It Yourself

    I don't really see why it shouldn't work feeding with a CSS (that should even protect the tubes) and trigger on the voltage across the tube heater ... rather than using a timer delay???
  10. sorenb
    do you want help on that problem?
  11. sorenb

    HV delay

    sorenb replied to nopants's topic in Do It Yourself

    Just had a go at the KGST ....it swings to +rails at turn on, after 8-10s it drops quickly to some 20-40V ....and reaching 0V in additional 10s have you measured the behavior of your (magnificent Megaton btw) from startup until it settles?
  12. sorenb

    HV delay

    sorenb replied to nopants's topic in Do It Yourself

    does it take five minutes for the heaters to reach a steady state?
  13. sorenb

    HV delay

    sorenb replied to nopants's topic in Do It Yourself

    ....is it a bad Idea to feed the heaters from CCS and trigger on the voltage across the heaters? ....I measured the voltage drop across the heaters in the KGST ....(I have .47 ohm in series) it jumped right up at 1,6V and then slowly dropped to 0,5V and stays there ...and it seems to translate into the outputs swinging up to +rail ...and then begins to drop to zero after a while I guess feeding the tubes from a CCS feeding 1amp will make the voltage across the heaters go from ~2V to ~ 6V .... then use a simple latch that triggers at ~6V to turn on the HV if several heaters of different tubes are at play one might use a master trigger controlled by some AND-gates making sure that all heaters has reached working state ....is it just a bad idea from some reason?
  14. sorenb
    Yup, for maximum versality ...the caps go off board for the mini GR HV
  15. sorenb
    Lay the caps flat, two layers a tad screwed ....they fit inside the 2U
  16. sorenb
    the caps are mounted directly onto the chassie ... those ones are big, almost 2U tall
  17. sorenb
    if you are using the single HV/LV boards with chassie mounted caps...you might find it easier to get a fit inside the small Galaxy ... HV single: 3x4.11 LV single:3.72x2.4 Bias:3.56x2.0 (including NB)
  18. sorenb

    HV delay

    sorenb replied to nopants's topic in Do It Yourself

    Just an idea since your circuit is already 555 based .... how about feeding the heaters from a CCS ....and have the 555 coupled as a Schmidt Trigger ...starting the HV when ever the voltage drop across the ´heater is less than some voltage? Then the heaters will not pull excessive current and warm up gently ...and when ever warmed up the 555 will trigger the HV...
  19. sorenb
    @gepardcv: can you do a sketch showing your idea for chassie? I belive ModuShop do custom chassies ....if one buys five/ten ....it might be a low extra cost ....
  20. sorenb
    the idea behind splitting the PSU into HV, LV and Bias board is that it is more versatile ...I asked Kevin to keep the width less than 80mm(2U) so you have the option of mounting upright rather than horisontal in order to cram the amp into less space ... Also I asked Kevin to include option for NB on the Bias board ...
  21. sorenb
    I'm in for 4 amp boards 4 HV Golden Ref split version (with caps mounted off board) 4 LV Golden Ref split version 4 the bias board kevin
  22. sorenb
    I guess that is obvious .... but not that obvious that you need to maintain 10v across the resistor that is currently 20k ...it might be higher/lower as far as I can figur out.
  23. sorenb
    wouw ...two??? @georgep: some like to wear gloves when rubbing the knob ;o)
  24. sorenb
    So if 500V or 550V is needed one needs two times the cap in order to be able to serialise and still maintain the capacitance?
  25. sorenb
    might be a stupid question, but don't you need the 20k resistor to maintain a drop of 10V? something like (Vcc-10V)/0,5mA = total value of two resistors in series ? so in case one cannot get the resistor values needed, the 20k can be changed a bit up/down as long as there are 10V across ...right?
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