DefQon

I'd hate to service that Holo dac should something fuck up or that array of capacitors go out of tolerance or short out for whatever reason.

The pos' address: Cotswold view Four pools Worcestershire England United Kingdom Not my screenshot but yeah

For old PCM-56-63 dac you also have the Monarchy Audio 22A and B dac's, they should pop up for under 600usd on the US ebay domain, balanced and SE outputs, sounds great. I have one that I use. RE: Lampizator, I've been following Lampizator or in other words Lukaz's archive of projects since he started his old website many moons ago in the days where he would hack up various CD players and improve them by adding various tube output stages tapped from internal DAC IC's. When he migrated his old site to the new company he started called Lampizator when he use to sell on ebay and also sell Lampizator L1-L3 dac's as kits, the L4 builds he sold were never 100% consistent or the same. He basically used other peoples DAC boards, buffalo32 and various other ESS Sabre dac boards for his builds which he sold to other people. The only thing that made a Lampzator DAC a Lampizator is the tube output stage, nothing more. I've also seen and heard over 16 various Lampizator L4 of gen 1- gen 4 and while he has improved his internal build styles and layouts over time it is not a professionally built product and certainly does not warrant what he charges on them. When I heard the L4 roughly a year after it came out, I liked it but the absolute garbage build inside put me off from ever buying one. Lukaz is a great guy to talk to, certainly goes outside of the box of thinking for some of his designs but his more of a diy'er than a professional manufacturer. His early days motto (pre-Lampizator) was simply to build and improve on digital designs from big manufacturers and have it sound great without ripping off designs from another brand or over charging for something that is potentially a piece of shit. Now that Lampizator has become so successful he is doing the opposite of what he was against at first, using other peoples designs/boards and overcharging people with his products, I mean we are not talking about a few thousand dollar dac, his shit is $10k onwards nowadays. He claims to use good quality components internally but he doesn't, if you look at the picture that Kevin posted above the red film caps called Audiophiler, those are cheap Chinese generic film capacitors that you can buy on ebay for a few $$$ : http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=audiophiler+mjp&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xaudiophiler+mkp.TRS0&_nkw=audiophiler+mkp&_sacat=0. I would've been more impressed if he used a beefed up Broskie cathode follower as a tube output stage than his typical SRPP and other half arsed THD 10% + designs.

Unfortunately people buying it/auditioning it don't care about this unless it sounds good nowadays.

I wonder when Cavalli will name his next amp Liquid Ass or Liquid Shit.

Definitely this along with a high price tag and good bs marketing you got yourself the O2 amp of the electrostatic headphone world.

So I got in touch with said seller offering BL J74's turns out his stock is gone (*looks at Justin's direction*). I will keep those who got in contact with me and this thread updated when I get more genuine sources for various popular jfets. Cheers

If memory serves right you can't disassemble the 207 drivers easily and putting it back together properly like factory new. The drivers epoxied together. Unlike the SR-507 which allows you to disassemble the drivers easily. If it's an old or out of warranty pair just buy another 207 from Japan as they are quite cheap.

That Focusrite looks pretty.

Birgir can chime in for more on details but this what I have learnt from some of the posts used to eliminate small channel imbalance issues. Just tap the housing with gentle force as sometimes the diaphragm (mylar) sticks to the stator. Leave the earspeaker playing music until the channel balance fixes itself (time can vary, one of the Nova Basic's I had took 3 weeks for the balance issue to go away). While the headphones are unplugged, short the connectors on the plug with your finger (you may hear a slight woosh noise as it discharges it). Recoat the diaphragm or replace the entire driver (absolute last resort option). If under warranty, get in contact with your retailers/local distributor. Use the channel balance pot on your amplifier to balance channel imbalance if none of the above works.

They are genuine, I've linked Justin, Kevin Gilmore to the seller but not sure if Justin ordered any lot from him. Two other hc'ers and 5 people from diyaudio have ordered from him and confirmed testing and working fine, excluding myself. PM me for details because I don't want shit bag unregistered lurkers or somebody from China buying the entire lot if I post the link here.

He could try this: http://promedicalaudio.com/

Dibs on first serialised batch having reliability and imbalance or amplifier issues. HFM will release v2 2 months after.

Well in this case with the new e-stats from Dan sounds more like fail engineering with the drivers not being designed well, leading out to be inefficient as fuck and judging from whats been posted here, sounds like ass.

If this is the same Song Heui Taiwan pots I'm thinking of, I had multiple units that had tension issues with the turns and developed internal tracking problems with the wipers resulting in channel imbalance.

Here's what it costs from my source: 2SJ74-BL @ $0.90 each 2SJ74-V @ $0.90 each 2SK170-BL @ $0.90 each GR grades are a bit harder to get in bulk at an appropriate price but I'm trying to haggle another supplier for roughly the same as the above.

I've been meaning to repair it for about 3 years now but its out of anybody's expertise to repair it as it uses IC's also utilized in the infamous Philips SACD1000 player. I've been ripping SACD's lately from my Pioneer Blu ray player (one Kevin recommended in the other sub forum) as my old PS3 needs to retire. I swear with some HDCD's on my Classe player when it worked, it sounded quite good compared to the usual redbook I also owned.

That explains why I felt the album sounded a bit laid back on my now $3000 door stop Classe CD/DVD 1 player.

This I did not know, going to try it out and play the only HDCD I have Tool - Lateralus. I've always noticed HDCD disc on capable HDCD cd players sound little bit laid back.

I have access to a few thousand NOS Toshiba 2sj103, 2sk373, 2sk709, 2sj104, 2sk30, 2sk170, 2sj74 fets, if any of you guys need some or bulk feel free to send me a PM. Also have a supplier from Japan who can supply 2sj109 GR's. I know Kevin will never let his stock go :). I'm trying hard to also obtain the harder to get for the T2 build 2sk389's fets.

If you are able to get some 50k and even 100k I'm interested.

Worth less in value as well.

I didn't know I had an electric toaster.

Kevin and Birgir discussed the issues with the original T2 while back and the biggest problem was heat output within the small enclosure which will reduce the lifespan of some of the components and/or have stuff go out of spec. The second suggestion was a regulated and better power supply. Of course the DIYT2 doesn`t just improve on these areas but most likely other aspects as well. Kevin or Birgir of course can chime in with the more specific details. Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

That's actually "cheap" compared to what other sellers are selling/sold it at for in the past 8 years and more. The T2 would be purely high priced due to collectors demand no matter how good the DIYT2 has improved on the original thermal and circuit semantics/schematics wise. The original T2 was never "cheap" on the used market.