mwl168

I may have the boards. PM me if interested. I don't remember if schematic was ever posted.

Gives a new meaning to “rolling shutter”.

There seems to be no trim pots nor servo circuits. How is the offset and balanced adjusted?

Those are good lenses and cover most applications other than wild life, sport photography, etc. which need much more reach. But then we are talking really big dollars. And, yes, these are heavy bulky gears. The 24-70 f2.8 is a great walk-around lens with great optical quality but it's a brick not to mention the 70-200 f2.8. It's a plus that the body was not used for video. I read that some Canon bodies tend to overheat in video mode but not sure if 5D II has this issue. Edit: Forgot to mention, Fred Miranda is a good place to check on the going price for camera gears.

My biggest complaints about the 5D II: 1. Does not support auto ISO in the manual mode (default to ISO 400). 2. Slow frame rate - less than 4 frame per second 3. High ISO noise - I try and keep it under 1600 But my expectation may not be fair for a full-frame DSLR that was first released in 2008.

I still use my 5D II I bought new about 10 years ago. I consider it still a very good body that's capable of making high quality pictures with good quality lenses. It is also very well built and supports different focus screen options (not so the 5D MK III, IV and 5DS R). 21 M pixel is more than enough for most applications - this coming from someone that also owns a 5DS R. I have not used 5D III and IV but I will guess the 5D II will miss out on high ISO performance, dynamic range and frame rate. For the price I've seen advertised for used, good condition 5D II I consider it a bargain. The emphasize is on condition; things like shutter actuation count, is there dust on the image sensor, are any of the memory card slot pins bent, etc.. I am curious - which lenses are included?

Finally got the time to mount the FLM ball head on my Bogen tripod which I bought back in the 80's. Started playing with and setting up the controls on the FLM ball head and I am impressed. FLM is a small German company and seems fairly unknown in the US. I also have a RRS BH-40 ball head. IMO, the relatively equivalent FLM ball head is of equal or better quality at a lower cost to the RRS ball head. I like them both. The FLM head does have some unique and innovative features which I find rather handy.

Went on a bit of shopping spree the last couple of weeks. Taking advantage of Holiday discounts on the FLM ball head. Nice design and very high quality product. The Canon 1D MK4 body is a prompt purchase - one in great shape came up at a good price. Only less than 34K shutter actuation. Shoot me a PM if you are interested in the mint condition 300MM F4 L lens. I bought a 300mm F2.8 last year so this one becomes somewhat redundant. I'll cut a good deal for longterm headcasers. Also has a Canon 1.4X ii available.

Happy Birthday Joachim!

^ as is my Marantz SA1.

Is the GRLV intended to output +20VDC or +/-20VDC?

I bought some 2SC4686a from utsource many years ago. They tested same as the ones I got from BDENT. But I am fairly positive they also sell some fake parts.

Looks like time to start a dedicated thread for the Stax X9000.

Happy birthday!

Happy Birthday John.

I recommend looking into one of the OLED offerings based on the picture quality. It should fit nicely into your price range. I have the LG 65" one and rally enjoy it. The ability to display true black is something I have not experienced in other types of TVs and it seems to make the contrast better too among other things. Although the sounds is nothing to write home about. And that's probably common for these new generation TVs that tend to emphasize on being as thin as possible. I have mine hooked up to a nice 2-channel system. Happy hunting!

I have found using smaller diameter of solder helps very much with this problem. I now use .025/.6mm ones almost exclusively now for this kind of work.

Exciting and interesting race indeed. Still not impressed with Mercedes’ strategies. It probably costed them the race again. It was impressive that Hamilton fought all the way back to the podium. Now that the Mercedes no longer has the commanding lead in the pace of the cars, they ought to do better in the other departments to retain their world championships streak.

Happy birthday!

All the polarized caps on the PCB are clearly marked with the polarity and voltage rating. Measure the dimensions and lead spacing of the board to decide which caps to order. Most of us used 1/2W resistors for our builds although 1/4W ones probably suffice in most if not all positions. Take a close look at the photos posted in the thread should also give you lots of information. With many parts becoming obsolete, locating an old BOM may not help you very much.

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This is what I used for the socket pins: https://www.ebay.com/itm/143522733990?hash=item216a9f1fa6:g:chUAAOSwga9eN~R4 They are intended for tube sockets but work very well for Stax sockets too.

That TKD pot (2-gang) is also used in the Audio Note M7 preamp. I looked up its price at Michael Percy’s site many years ago. I don’t remember the exact number, it was expensive but I did not choke on it.

You got PM.