GeorgeP

Not sure why folks are continuing to indulge this idiot… maybe he’ll post some Gucci purses next.

Yup, that’s it.

Kevin commented on how to ground the amp, at the end of this post. The picture doesn’t work any longer but there was a short wire going from the terminal block ground to the board stand-off hole. Make sure to remove some anodizing from the chassis so there is continuity among all the pieces, that particular standoff and the IEC. The chassis ground from the amp section would then go directly to the IEC ground tab.

Try getting your 190v closer to 200v if possible. And then readjust after 30min or or as the value will change until the temps stabilize. If your offsets are still problematic then adjust as required (30ish volts or lower is good) but it might suggest an issue somewhere.

As discussed in PM, all three toroids are miswired. Someone has tinkered with the PSU and re-wired the toroids incorrectly. This amp was built in 2016 with Houlden's transformers, which are what I have in my T2. Toroidy may be the cheapest option for you given you are in Australia. Alternatively Primrose/Sumr can supply the required transformer. Hopefully your only issue the transformer.

1000%. I have seen people do this with unfortunate results. Even what some consider to be drop in replacements for the el34, like kt77, should not be used.

It’s even easier for the ones not mounted on the heatsink. 😉

The 2sa1486 from little diode are 100% fake. They are pretty scummy.

Where did you buy them? Most 2sa1486 being sold at the moment are fakes.

If the 2sc3381 and 2sk246 are the ones you got from me, then they are real. That said, I have seen fake 2sc3381.

use 1156 on the heatsinks, 1486 (if you have them) everywhere else.

Oof! So something has also gone in the psu *and* some resistors in the amp sparked (to ground or just blew?)? Sounds like you have a bit of work to do, obviously fix the psu first.

Ooof - then it sounds like you have some work ahead of you...

So you only have one properly working side then?