Spiug31

What is it that generates a pop/crackle sound when a stepped attenuator traverses steps ? this is happening with my left channel goldpoint stereo volume attenuator, the matching right attennuator in the same amp is unafflicted by this odd effect. One differance I can see between the two attenuators is that the unaffected one has wires linking to chassis ground (xlr pin1) other wise they seem to be wired the same. left -pop/crackle right - no pop/crackle n.b. the loudness of the pop/crackle generated when traversing steps increases as the attenuator knob is turned further clockwise. While on a step both attenuators perform the same. The actual volume of the pop/crackle remains far below the volume of the music presented by the next step of the attenuator. do these pop/crackles mean any damage is being done ?

what I just got I`m glad I rarely upload

I enjoy the wentworth wooden jigsaws with whimsies, we inherited a collection and have added a few since. It does require thought but while the 1000 to 2000 peice normal jigsaws were too easy or dull, the wooden ones take me 4-8 hours for a 250 peice puzzle (good for christmas ). ebay often has several being sold. I prefer puzzles I can move physically move, for me these are brain teasers.

I`ve been a bit slow to ask this, but are there any plans to release a version that includes i2s input ? toslink, usb, i2s and coaxial/bnc would cover all the bases

maybe two weeks for the smell of fresh paint to fade and then the rotten eggs hit, just long enough to cash a check

drywall with inbuilt smell of rotten eggs, ingenious

happy birthday Duggeh

Having had a proper look at the size of components, lack of clearance around the resistors on the minidac board and the difficuilty for me to get good lighting/magnification of the work area I`ve decided not to adapt it. Instead I`ll finish the idea to make do with applying a voltage divider just prior to my amps inputs to tide me through and will look forward to an upgrade of source later on. This minidac provides an unusually hot XLR signal, following the instructions in the manual (quoted below) the minimum voltage I get is 3.352V. Applying the attenuation should solve that in an easy to reverse manner. I`m knackered now, thanks for all the knowledge, fare well

think back two months http://www.head-case.org/forums/headphone-amplification/5358-apogee-mini-dac-hp-out-vs-headfive-via-xlr-rca.html#post196203

fun as in interesting, pedantically fun or fun as in smoking components ? here is a big pic of the mini-dac board http://www.head-case.org/forums/members/spiug31-albums-apogee-mini-dac-internals-picture612-big-pic.jpg how would I identify the correct resistor ? n.b. my multimeter is a tenma 72-1016 (ebay buy ) - off topic - my previous listening impressions are no longer current as battery powering the minidac and plugging the beta22 plug into the wall rather than the extension cable have changed the sound again.

I`m not comfortable desoldering/soldering components on that cramped a board (requires too much coordination, balance andprolonged visual focus for me). gain of 2 is lowest I`ve seen mention of. they have eased my muscles on several nights, as far as audio impressions go they are near perfect but for my taste could do with a little more visceral/bite, wetter sound, solid imaging, denser blacks and colours. In other words there is a slight veil at present. this may I hope resolve itself once I finally get my amp, source and cable to play ball Currently sonic presentation changes a lot with position/angle/height of the cups which I hope will also be resolved in time / with practice. I can see myself missing the donuts and having pangs if I were to sell them. The HD650`s I find are more an intelectual exercise than a part of me, I percieve a cold void in their sound which combined with a rolloff isn`t pleasant.

yup, what he said the sound gets noticably blurred by using the minidacs front volume control instead of trimpots + fixed value resistor attenuation. my beta22 has R3 and R4 as 2491 which reading from the schematics means it is set with a gain of 2. The resistors used are printed with Dale RN55D. Running a 1kHz 16bit 44100hz tone via toslink from my H120 to the minidac generates a minimum voltage out (pin 2 to pin 3) of 3.352V left channel and 3.346V right channel so I`ve adjusted them to both be 3.352V. This is what influenced me to think that attenuation or a new source is needed. I`ll check around for the price of RN55D resistors over here.

HMV`s wikipedia page HMV Group, Wikipedia

I'd appreciate some advice here. My mini-dacs' xlr output volume is too high for comfortable listening. I intend to make use of attenuators/voltage dividers of type U (shown below) to manage the volume to a comfortable level. That I've seen here I've done some testing and the value of resistance that works best for me is an attenuation of 30dB (68K ohm on both pin 2 and 3 (the R1 positions)). The value of resistance I measure between pin 2 and 3 on my mini-dac when it's unpowered is 4450 ohm. I am presuming this is the source impedance and should be matched by the shunt resistance (shown as R2). My 4-channel rockhopper beta22 is fitted with two dact CT2 attenuators. I am attenuating the signal at the interconnect cables' xlr connector just prior to it entering my amp. Question: As these resistors are mostly in the signal path what types would you recommend me using where ? n.b. I have adjusted the mini-dacs' inbuilt trimpots (which has helped) but it is still too loud for easy listening without attenuation. It'll be a while (over six months) before I can afford to change source but I am willing to consider the expense of resistors such as the TX2575 for use at points in these attenuators, if they will give the best result. In the short term I am using Kiwame 2W resistors at R2 and have both shinkoh and kiwame values here for the R1 positions.

I much prefer lorne sausage Sliced sausage - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia p.s. "In 2002, the six billionth can of Spam was sold." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spam_(food)

The short lever initially hammer stone attached to short lever = less cracked knuckles and more force soon followed by hammer stone attached to short lever = squished fingers progress a double edged implement

Thanks for the pointer to Pulley - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia , this picture in combination with [Force in x Distance in = Force out x Distance out] from the Simple machine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia page (which was linked to in the Pulley page) helped. I now see where the extra rope goes/comes from and understand these pulleys

One that fully evades my understanding (boggles my mind) is the block and tackle. Block and tackle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia if someone knows an easier to understand explanation of how they work, please let me know . . . still baffled .

the screw It'd be quite a different world without screw top caps, worm gears, wood/metal screws, Archimedes screws, awls, drill bits etc. my second suggestion would be the cog/gear in its many forms.

The low angled ceilling above mine accentuates that, it`s a pretty amp in the dark

I wonder how much they'll retail for in Europe/UK

Happy birthday

Happy birthday

ask your current teacher

[i aspire to being "somewhat incompetent" in a few years down the line currently still to much risk of being an so] it's a good fit.