SoupRKnowva

What makes using 12 or 25 volts better than the current 6? And would it be possible to use the current boards at those filament supply voltages?

So this is gonna be a really dumb question, but that seems like a really good deal, and I want to buy my first soldering iron. They don't have the PS-CA2 coils on the site anymore, would the PS-CA3 coil work as a replacement? and then, which tips would you recommend buying for DIY amp building? theres so many to choose from on the site.

Solution: leave it on all the time

So I replaced my output bias resistors today. Im using the IXYS parts at 500 volts, so I was kind of worried, since you guys were saying they drift alot more than the sanyo parts do, and not to raise it too much. But i replaced the 180 resistors with 100 ohm ones. to raise the current to 10mAs, and I rebiased after about 2-3 hours of leaving it on and got all my biases down under .2 volts so I was pretty pleased

Wanted to thank all of you for the advice, but it turned out to not have anything to do with the grounding at all, which I think is why it took so long to discover what happened. I was undoing the left channel from the pot, first from the input side, and nothing changed. Then from the output side, and it went away, but if I moved the wire sometimes the hum would come back sometimes not, so I looked at what was changing as I moved the wire. It turned out that during shipping I guess, from GeorgeP to me, the positive wire connection came out of the terminal block from the pot. So I unscrewed it, put the wire back in, screwed it back down. And now no buzz, and also, the channel imbalance I had, is also gone... anyways, now I'm getting beautiful music from my KGSSHV and Sr-307s

I was thinking the same thing, how would I fit all those ground wires into that one little ground spot on the terminal block on the Power Supply...I was thinking I would star ground everything to the bolt attached to the bottom of the chassis

Uh...to quote GeorgeP, who I bought the amp from "The input grounds are grounded in accordance with the Rane standard which is the proper way to ground xlr - ie through the shield", pin 1 from the XLRs goes the the ground pad on the pcb for the pot, which is grounded to the chassis through contact.

Is like the normal periodic channel imbalance issues that crop up? Do you think it will go away after playing music for 2 weeks? Or is it something that we need to send them back to get fixed? I feel like it was packaged pretty well though

heh, now I have to deal with shipping them back to Price Japan and then waiting for warranty repair and then to ship them back. I guess even though they arrived essentially dead on arrival, they don't do exchanges of any kind...I'm starting to think the buzzing in the left channel might be related to the imbalance as well, since the amp was silent before it got shipped to me. Palchiu, thanks for the advice, but something I left out is that the pot is grounded to the chassis already, and adding those two wires seems like it would make a literal ground "loop" of wire, which doesn't seem like a good idea?

So I'm trying to track down some buzz/hum I'm getting in just the left channel of my recently acquired HV. The level of the buzz doesn't change with volume level at all. Here is a diagram of the grounds in the amp The wire connecting the power supply to the star ground goes around behind the transformer, and when I move that wire around the buzzing changes, but it is weird that its only buzzing in the left channel during all of this. Also of note is that this is my first/only stat amp, and I only have one brand new pair of Stax, 307s, that got to me from Price Japan with a channel imbalance issue. So I can't test other amps/cans. Any advice is appreciated guys

Payment sent, thanks again!

I was gonna ask if there was a rough estimate on how much all that would cost. Would it also involve a new run of boards for the T2 as well?

Back when I was first thinking about building a KGSSHV, I remember reading you guys warning about taking the output bias too high, that the transformer/powersupply would run out of steam. Using the stock, non mini power supply, and a 135VA transformer at 500v rails, how high would you guys guess it would be safe to turn up the output stage biasing current without hurting anything? Would something like 15mAs be possible, or would i want to stay below 10mAs? I know that John only took it up a few to 8mAs? Second question, would it be possible to make it so I could socket resistors to test different biases without having to solder all the resistors in each time?

Did we figure out if the new mini PSU was gonna work?

Is the new dynalo board gonna make it into this group buy?