Knuckledragger

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5j2YDq6FkVE

Crap. You can get a QT or WMV version here.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=UN5o0twbbUE

That punishment involves giving money to ALO, which means we all lose.

Hmm, maybe we should import some of them here.

That is all.

Russian photos from WWII.

Tom Waits is the coolest man ever.

I spend more time thinking about camera equipment than headphone so... First, I agree with both Smeggy and KG. A fast prime that gives you close to the 50mm equivalent focal length will do you well. The EF 35mm F/2 is an excellent choice. It's cheap, light, tack sharp wide open (especially on an APS-C sensor) and it has a very close minimum focus distance. It's wide aperture will allow you to do available light shots not possible with zoom lenses. As a bonus, it works on film bodies and full frame digital, were you to go that route in the future. Downsides are a noisy focus motor, and no full time manual (FTM), but what do you want for $250? An external flash is a must. The price of the 580EX has gone down significantly now that the 580EX II is out. A bracket and a extension cable will help even more. The farther your flash is from the lens, the better. Next, I would avoid the EF-S 17-55mm F/2.8. It's expensive for an EF-S (APS-C only) lens, and it's not terribly sharp wide open, which is the only reason to own it. $1000 for a constant F/2.8 that's blurry and won't work if you upgrade your camera is crummy deal. The EF 50mm F/1.4 is the cheapest way to get a Canon-branded F/1.4. It does let in a lot of light, and has USM and FTM, but it's not a paragon of sharpness until F/5.6 or so, and it tends to mis-focus in low light (which is when it's needed most.) The autofocus assist beam from a 580EX or other external flash will help with this. It also has mediocre bokeh, but this is probably irrelevant to you. The 50/1.8 is indeed a bargain, cheap enough to be an impulse buy purchase for most head-casers. It pretty sharp, and has less barrel distortion than the 50/1.4, but it's REALLY noisy, and feels like a cheap plastic toy. Caveat emptor. The EF-S 18-55 IS seems like a good idea, but I can't comment on it directly as I've never used it. It has the same slow aperture (F/3.5-5.6, depending on zoom) of the crappy kit lens Canon sells. I assume the optics are better, but it's kind of expensive. For the cost of it, you could get the 35mm F/2 and 50mm F1/.4 (or nearly) and they'd be useful film and full frame cameras. The one EF-S lens I would suggest is the 10-22mm. It's a superwide, making it quite useful in crampt quarters, and it's wonderfully sharp. It's a much better deal than its full frame cousin, the EF 16-35mm F/2.8L. In short: consider fast primes and an external flash. Avoid EF-S lenses (other than the 10-22) if possible.

I'm not exactly a psytrance fan, but that was quite cool. What lies beneath, in 8 bits: Hosted on my own site, because no image host (short of Flickr) will retain the original resolution.

This guy has chops.

That is sick and wrong on so many levels, and I, uh, kind of want one. Funk it.

Aww. Too bad I'm not closer to Chicago, or I'd offer to spin. Of course, not knowing the clientele at Billy's establishment, I suspect they'd be put to sleep by the downtempo and trip hop I normally spin, and visibly upset if I played dubstep.... I second this suggestion. I dunno what Billy has against Sony products (besides the obvious) but I can say with complete certainty that the 7506/V6s are very un-Sonylike in their quality and durability. The V6s are $30-ish cheaper and identical to the 7506, but have a 1/4" plug on the end (so you can't lose the screw-on adapter.) In either case, consider the Beyer replacement pads non-optional. I had my 7506s for over five years before I swapped the pads on them, and they didn't become my main DJ cans until I did. That said, if you break out in hives if Sony products touch your skin, the next obvious choice is the Senn HD-280. They have about the best acoustic isolation of any DJ can I've used, which is great for mixing in-heaphones (which I do in clubs that have sucky monitors.) The downside, of course, is the excessive force the 280s exert on the sides of your skull. They're not quite as durable as the Sonys, either. I've managed to keep my 280s in good shape for 4 years now, but I've seen other DJs destroy the headband in much less time than that. I don't like them as much, but if the 280s don't please you, I second the HD-25 suggestion. Ultrasone makes several DJ cans, and personally, I haven't liked any of them. Miserably uncomfortable, and lacking in isolation. I didn't do much critical listening, but I had trouble catching the snare drum in complex drum n bass tracks. If DJ cans fail that test, then they're useless to me.