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spritzer

High Rollers
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Everything posted by spritzer

  1. You shouldn't see any DC on the output since you can't adjust the amp that way. It is AC coupled so no DC should be on the output.
  2. Ahh that is not the best idea.
  3. Ahh never mind, the last pic is from a SRM-Xh. See it now.
  4. Change the regulator? That shouldn't happen at all.
  5. True story, at collage we had this meter to measure our lung capacity. As was so often the case I was used as a Guinea-pig for some experiments and the last one was total lung capacity. I broke the meter....
  6. A high power class A amp in a sealed box is a very bad idea so holes and more holes in those holes.
  7. Wait, I thought Stax didn't do anything to fix the 009's.... As for the SRM-3, this one has clearly been tampered with. What in the world are those huge caps suspended above the PCB? I can't remember the exact details of that schematic but I assume the resistor in question sits between the output transistor and the - rail? Not much that can be wrong except a shorted transistor, the pull down to ground is off or the voltages are wrong. Which brings me to the 240V setting, its is simply the former 120 connected to the 0V next to it. Nothing else.
  8. Thanks everyone!!! I had a slow day with some amp building and then took a trip to the half abandoned US Navy station here. Fun to see if as it is pretty much a large ghost town. I did get some cake, two of my friends picked me up just as I was going to bed and gave me a cake. The plan was to eat it outside but it was so windy that we lit the candles in the car. Almost set it on fire.... Anyway, a pic of my ugly mug with a cake.
  9. The ones I bought were 2 lead but they are only 180uf
  10. Mount it in standoffs though the holes in the core. That's what I did on Tyll's amp. Make sure you insulate the holes well though, they must not be grounded!!! What about mounting the small trafo on a side wall or indeed the back panel. I'd prefer to keep the transformer in the back but that's just me..
  11. I did recoat the diaphragms and replaced the bias connect with something sturdier which I fabricated out of silver wire. As they age the bias seems to drift on some of them by a tiny margin. I have no doubt that this is tied to sunlight or rather the drivers being exposed at some point to direct sunlight. Some will drift from time to by a tiny margin by 0.5dB or something like that, just a slight change but I recoat to try and prevent that. The bias connect used by Stax was the biggest afterthought I've ever seen, this tiny metal clip which slots into the bias contact and is pushed onto the brass rings that hold the diaphragm. I soldered this connection to the cable entry and then push fit to the diaphragm. They do sound stunning off the Carbon. From day one the Omega has needed power more than any of the other Stax phones and the Carbon gives it so effortlessly. With the BHSE they will always have that extra bass edge, a slight coloration if you will, but here the bass is leaner but more natural. It will hit even harder though...
  12. This is an amp you'd really want a 6' stick just to turn it on....
  13. One of my Omegas... The SR-Omega was an amazingly ambitious design but some of it was just badly done. The aluminum housing is just a skin for a poly carbonate body inside which everything is attached to. As we all know, metal screws into tapped plastic is always a sound plan... Other than that they seem to hold up well but spare parts are becoming scarce. From what I gather there are no more spare earpads but the foam from the 007 pads can be modified to fit the Omega skin. There should be some arcs left but Lambdas could always be scavenged to keep the Omegas going. So the bottom line is that they will be fine when plugged into modern amps. I'm using it right now from the Carbon so it doesn't get any more more modern than that. In other news I was just sent some Sennheiser Unipolar 2000 and 2002 units so expect a thread on them soon.
  14. I just drill and tap individual holes but something like this would work. Not a whole lot of room though as I'm right up against the end of the sink.
  15. No problems using angle brackets with the Carbon but they have been dropped on the newest version of the board. The devices will be mounted directly to the sinks from now on. The plan is to build four Megatron's but who knows if I'll go through with it.
  16. We could make those boards a bunch smaller without sacrificing safety. Also routing around the crazy high voltage parts to make sure they can't spark might be a good idea. I don't see a ground plane being a problem if we pull it back to say 60mill or even more. We could block out the area around the output devices too just for an extra level of safety. Also goes without saying that these have to be quality boards, made by people who understand HV boards. No super cheap PCB's here. To think there are people on HF who think I'm going to build these...
  17. I like it.
  18. Some of the Chinese boxes are ok but the anodizing on all of them is shit... pure and utter shit. I use a very strong cleaner to wash the Modushop stuff after drilling to degrease them but if I use that on any of the Chinese boxes... they turn green.
  19. The Carbon is a SiC KGST, not a BHSE. Whether some of the stuff that makes up the BHSE is necessary or even makes it better is something Kevin and I have discussed with no real result. Removing the tubes makes the amps much less likely to break down, in fact I run the Carbon 24/7...
  20. I will do one with the T2 CCS at some point as I'll do a solid state T2. Also SiC BHSE... Who needs tubes now...
  21. Those boxes aren't all that great so I won't be touching them again. I'll build one mini Carbon into the KGSSHV mini chassis just to test it but after that it will be all custom.
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