spritzer

A small 2*0-15 with the center secondary leads tied together does the same thing.

You can run either one assuming the PSU and transformer are up for it plus the heatsinks. Mine are all run at 400V because I don't see the point in going higher. With the 009 perhaps....??

You could put in large resistors to drop the voltage but the only sensible thing would be to get a new transformer. This isn't a project where you worry about 200$ or so...

It is 30VCT so 15-0-15V not 60VCT like you have.

Why do they have a Woo WES there?

Well there is that which is so absurd that it isn't even funny but no, their status as the community retards has be locked in place for a long time now.

That has been my experience. The carbon shines in the top end the more power you feed.

I agree that the 10M90 is the most likely culprit here. I would strip it out and clean the boards well. No clean flux does not apply at these voltages!!!

Post some pictures to start with. Anyhing from local stores worries me...

Never had that happen after building at least 100 of those PSU's over the years. It only gets that hot if massive amounts of current are flowing though it so something somewhere is very wrong.

I chew through the 8N80C's like there is no tomorrow...

Yup, it is the new retard forum. They have to be somewhere...

Ehhh what's up with the odd resistors? Some of those spots have to be 1/2W.

There is a reason KG and I are selling off our T2 parts... You could even go lower than 100R so no problem there.

That is the correct part.

Ehhh might have been 290. I was just doing this off the top of my head but the full data should have been posted here by me at some point. 290V sounds plausible as it is half of the B+ minus the natural loss.

Yeah, pretty much as boring as it can be. Finally putting balanced connectors on an already balanced amp...

On the top side of the large resistors. Balance them together and then the offset (well it isn't the offset at all) is adjusted to 390VDC.

Those KGST's make me feel ashamed that my boards are used in such a way.

Sure we can. A DHT amp would be an order of magnitude more complex than that. Edit: Didn't see the second page...

1.7V LED's as usual.

They can be but tantalums also have a tendency to explode so I'd use the ceramics...

It's supposed to be 1uf. The board is always right.

Mine are built with the boards attached directly to the sinks and I adjust them from the top. The boards you are using are different from mine though and I'm not sure what version was used on the groupbuy...

That has its own issues due to the proximity to the output socket and its wiring. Much harder to shield that with all the extra capacitance the shield would generate. It should be clear now just how much engineering went into the KGSSHV mini...