spritzer

Yeah and you really don't want anything reflective on the back. So open and inert....which this isn't.

That back plate is all kinds of stupid. It's the HE Audio 1.3 all over again.

Stax can't keep up with demand is more likely.

There is no way PJ sent you a set since 2008 as they don't carry any stock.

Full voltage swing with a high enough input signal from most of these amps will burn the diaphragm. An amplitude twice the bias voltage or higher on either stator would be very bad indeed.

Stax serial numbers mean nothing.

Hard to say when the phones will be damaged but let's not play them with the DC rails floating on the stators. Anything short of that and they should be fine. Stax says the amps should be below 20V when warmed up but I think it is far too conservative. Doesn't matter if they are there or not. The amp certainly doesn't care.

Change the tail resistor for the offset pot and it should work.

The nut isn't a problem when attached to a PCB. The issue is is the pressure of the pin as they grip too much. They need to be opened up to the correct pressure

That's just the pins and they are easy to open up. Well a bit tedious when I had to do that to some 500 sockets...

No problem running this at +/-400V but it can go up +/-450V. We could even do something like the T2 CCS and push it even further.

This will form the basis of the new Blue Hawaii I'll build next year. Good thing here is that tube failure is far less catastrophic plus it should sound better.

You need more Flukes...

It may me Christmas but I'm not going to be so nice. That has to be the most stupid shit I've read all month.

I've never seen an LDR that measures at an acceptable level.

What's up with people thinking that any headphone amp will work at driving speakers? Some will output sound but that's about it.

That's pretty much it. Most of the SRD-7 units used a transformer to further step up the audio signal and isolate the bias supply from the audio signal.

My price all in is around the 24$ mark if I'm lucky with customs. If I'm unlucky then yeah.... it hurts.

I hope you aren't running the heater wires for the CCS tubes all the way to the PSU? That would be very bad...

Around the 10$ mark F.O.B. I'm sure the TKD's are around this level as well in these quantities.

Go ahead, think big. It is certainly one of the best pots ever made.

They are much closer on the newer boards as in they are touching. For a normal KGSSHV there is no need for heatsinks on the LV stuff. Doesn't generate enough heat for it.

That board is 100% correct.

Ahhh an old school HV. So much empty space on those PCB's...

That would be a rather gigantic investment for a groupbuy....