spritzer

I'd just tap into the B+ with a voltage divider and a ballast resistor.

Wow....

Yeah there is nothing to bleed the bias supply but it doesn't have a whole lot of energy in it.

All BC parts I've ever seen are marked BC*** while something like this points to it being 2SC32725.

Humidity and the PCB quality could be an issue here along with dust. The solder resist some manufacturers use is a bad joke and will not insulate much.

1mm for those voltage levels is overkill to the n-th degree so it should never have shorted. We use 25mill from the pads to the ground plane which is 0.635mm so 1mm is plenty. The flux however will short out the boards and it has to be cleaned off!!!

Hehe true but using cheap meters at these levels is no joke. No protection circuits, the insulation in the leads is an unknown quantity and the actual measured value can be way off. Doesn't mean you have to go nuts, I have some 100$ B&K Precision meters here that are just excellent.

Not really about something better, those things are unsafe and can kill you. There is probably no protection inside them so you could kill your self or even blow up the amp.

Yeah, close to zero volts DC doesn't make any sense unless the diodes are toast. If they were shorted to ground then it would all explode.

You need some better meters though. :)

Nope, nothing like that. There will be no details of it just yet but it is all custom. I was never happy with the group buy stuff for various reasons so I'd never use it.

I asked about the price of solo headsets but they just don't know yet. They would also be useless without the amp. They will not share anything about this, as of yet. My guess is that they never will as why would they? Doesn't make any sense to have us picking over the schematics and showing what is undoubtedly a piss poor amp design. That just leaves buying a set and taking it apart which is a 50k$ gamble. If I did something like that than it would be to design a superior amplifier and not share the findings with everyone. You can thank scum like Cavalli for that...

Two DMM's are a good idea just to check if one is functioning ok. They don't have to be expensive but stay away from the no name stuff. I like B&K a lot for the cheap stuff but there is also Brymen, Extech etc. A used Fluke 189 and you are set for life though. The Morgan Jones books are excellent and have a lot of practical stuff in them. All of my books are in storage due to the impending move but there was one which was quite good, Practical Electronics for designers or something like that.

But you are crazy!!

Yup, must use paste everywhere. I even put it between the panels which attach to the heatsink for better thermal behavior.

Just leave them alone.

All of these drivers are the same through the entire product run. Some have spacers to account for unit to unit variation but they were always the same. That includes the later Pro versions, just different spacers for the diaphragms.

Same exact drivers in the SR-5 so exactly the same problem there.

Massive imbalance and lack of bass can really only point to very badly arced diaphragms. If these were used with SRD units then that is more probable than not.

Yup, try that as a number of factors you have to factor into the offset string. The value is based on my builds which are very different to the boards from the group buy.

That's even less comparable.

The move to ever thinner diaphragms is a fallacy IMO as there is nothing that really justifies it. Stax are lost in their PEEK films now but the SR-Omega at 1.5um or the 007 at 1.35um aren't bad. I'm also sure they aren't using mylar as there are simply better materials out there now so any comparison simply based on thickness is completely moot. That said the resolution of the new 007Mk2's is simply stunning. Too bad they have to spoil it with the stupid port crap.

Yeah, you need to measure it as there is no way to tell from the outside if those tiny wires are intact.

Nope. just for my use.