spritzer

Just open up the plastic cover on top of the transformers. I did look at some pics and I don't think the Esoteric units have those covers. What component are you using Marc?

On the Stax stuff they cut the lead wires into the transformer. On the more expensive amps they actually cut the winding's as they are connected to the terminals on the transformer.

I'l get something like the E-560 or E-600 to play with from Japan. Only issue is shipping them as they are...ehh..hefty to say the least.

Yeah and the NTE stuff is usually just general replacements for something else.

For the KGST, it should be both. Try the MPSA.....

Well it is either that or start trimming ones own with a laser.

That will be fun to watch. I'll tackle Accuphase in the near future as I want one of their Class A integrateds but I believe that they are multi winding as a standard.

Yeah Kevin was talking about the TI super expensive film resistors or the crazy pants stuff found inside high end multimeters. Those are power resistors so not the same thing.

No idea.

I've heard that they use 100V only transformers on the Japanese gear but haven't verified it. On the cheaper amps it was usually just a matter of missing leads but on the 007/727 they cut the actual winding's.

Yeah only the MPSW and MPSA transitors work on that board. Is it also a reflection or are the 1486's in backwards? Also those thick film resistors will work but not a great idea in the feedback line. Also all those 1/4W resistors have to go as those are the spots that either need higher power handling or more voltage handling.

Ahh yeah, the mighty detail machine that is the HD800. Now let's pair it with an amp that has the transparency of a puddle of mud and we are golden.

Post some pics of the boards as then stuff is easier to spot. A super bright LED is not normal...

Indeed, you can sell people anything. That's why I like to see the reaction of non-audio folk to some of the utterly retarded crap audiophiles throw about as fact. Using an amp with 2% distortion is a good example of this, why would anybody do that? Tyll's KGSS has what, 0.02% through the transducers of a SR-207?

Because it isn't real? First of all, how are you going to hear any meaningful difference in a SET? They are high distortion/high noise amps by nature so how is the volume control going to change anything with such a flawed circuitry behind it? Secondly, it is very difficult to compare attenuators in circuit as they are so different. I for one will never put steppers in my amps except to clear out those that I already have at hand. They all go bad with dirty contacts, I've lost count of how many DACT's I've had to take apart and clean over the years. They also won't last, the plating on the PCB's wears out very quickly. I was ordering some custom made pots on Monday and they are rated at 50000 rotations, no way the Elma switches can pull that off. Then we have stuff like the Penny+Giles RF15 which has been in use for almost 40 years. They still custom make them if you ask nicely and will outperform any stepper I've come across. Also there is no high quality optical attenuation, it simply doesn't exist. They are all high distortion devices but they sound cool so people settle for that.

That one is a GES or some slight variation of that. Those pencil tubes are kinda nice, they are what I used in my micro GES...

The fuse size is always about the transformer and its inrush current. 4A could be normal.

You can't match tubes, that is pretty much the gist of it. As for the KGSSHV, the mini uses a completely different power supply and standing current so no doubt there are some differences. There we are talking about major circuit changes. Also only volume matched (with a voltmeter that is) blind tests really apply for something like this. Assumption is the mother of all fuckups. Also a warmer climate with higher than 23°C ambient might require the amps to be readjusted. I can't mimic hot conditions here so they are adjusted at normal room temp.

The whole KGSSHV's sound so different is blown way out of proportion. The only real difference is with warmup and thus the offset of the amp and the tolerance of the components. Once they are all running at optimum temp zero them out and see how much difference there is in a volume matched blind test. I've done that, I wonder how many others have done so... All of this reminds me of the tube rolling stupidity. How many have actually compared tubes with identical specs? I mean the same trans-conductance , not just throwing one fresh set in there and one burned out "NOS" set and claiming the NOS sounds so much more mellow. Something to ponder...

I think most high end Stax owners have 009's, doesn't mean they use them though...

There are no products I'd recommend over all. Most good vinyl re conditioners will work just fine. I've thought about making aftermarket earpads so something for the todo list I suppose. Wouldn't be cheap but the Omega's are worth it.

That wouldn't be a problem.

I wouldn't use leather cream on the earpads as well...they aren't leather. They are vinyl so they need some plastic treatment instead.

I always liked the 202 but it's been way too long since I had one for any meaningful comparison. Going by the basic difference between the x0x and x07 series the 207 would be a bit brighter with a more open top and tighter bass.

Also...electrostatics.