spritzer

The Carbon has the same issue as the BHSE and the T2. Ruthlessly revealing and the HE90 are not a good match, especially if you are all too well aware of their shortcomings.

Look what just showed up. I decided to treat myself for my birthday... Sounds brilliant with the HE90 and is pretty much required to use them. Also the build quality is nothing short of stunning. Now I just need to address some imbalance in the HE90's as now that the left driver is up and running properly the right one is a bit too weak by comparison.

You can get the foam from Stax repair centers. It comes with the thin wool used in the Lambda/Lambda Pro

Pretty much any strong glue will work but I'd stay away from epoxy as it might do some harm to the materials. I've also used contact adhesive which is very strong once it has been allowed to cure.

One of mine actually shipped in that yellow color as they are like that on the inside as well. The baffle on the other hand is the SR-3/5 color and shows no discoloration. As for the earpads, the first SR-1's had earpads similar to the HE90/HE60. High and thin

There is a difference in the sound but also in what earpads should be used with them. I would also recommend refurbishing them as there are some things in the cups that might require attention.

This one has most of the parts of the SR-2 and SR-3 so a late one. The early ones are very different, quite a bit smaller and made from very different materials.

That's the last version so ca. 1967.

Just post the pics somewhere and link to them, imgur for example. I have three different SR-1's and I like them all but Stax has certainly made better. It's remarkable how long they do last and two of mine fire up instantly. The third one needs some work but it shows how electrostatics do last. I spent a few hours yesterday listening to my Quad ESL57's which were made in 1968 and are 100% original except the PSU and crossover parts were refreshed a couple of years ago. Keep them out of the sun and they will outlast any cone speaker...

It's much cheaper to make, that's why.

Having the joint on the top like that with no internal support really isn't the best move. Still they have been doing it for 22 years so the failure rate must not be that high. I've never had one fail but then again my Lambdas don't see a lot of use.

It's something I could look into. I'm going to build one and see how I like it. I'm slowly working on a full size version of the circuit so that takes precedence at least for a while.

Communication was never their strong suit but I have little doubt that everything is ok. Some customers just need a lot of hand holding and places like PJ aren't for them.

It must have been a bad batch as these work perfectly. Some of my first ones had the center bump but I returned all of them.

I do... I do...

They work but if you want something that is nice, then you need a custom plug. Stupid simple to make though

Thanks.

Yup that's the one. So so quality but the fit is ok.

Those are the Chinese Stax sockets that were on Aliexpress but I've never seen this version before. It looks ok but the mounting is a bit odd with two pegs on each side. The tube is actually 6C5GT so pretty much half a 6SN7...well in a way. I have some US ones here as well but I'm just running the included tubes first.

Well it did end up costing me about 730$ all in so not that cheap. Fees in China, shipping from there to here and finally customs BS here. I'd rather have a SRM-323S but you know... I also need to do a lot of work to it before it is safe to use. It's impressive that almost none of the screws in this chassis actually work. Everything is loose and rattling, screws are too short with no actual purchase and the builder has never heard of lock washers. Now some pics, as you can tell by the bottom of the board, this is bodge city!! The PSU is completely unregulated and pretty much as basic as they get. CRC filters but that's it. Finally the VU circuit. Clearly off the shelf unit like the delay line above.

Kerry is the new Cavalli except you know... well engineered products and built correctly.

Yeah, not good at all. If it was floating then maybe it would work but not grounded. It's also two 6V legs used to power different parts with the CT grounding it. I just sent Kevin pics so we will have some better data soon.

It pretty much had to be an Egmont unless it used some obscure dissimilar dual triode. I might modify it and add a stage if there are any tubes that fit the octal socket and draw about 0.3A of filament current. Not that great. I've only tried it on my test bench with 207's but coming off my usual diet there of Carbon's, KGSSHV's and KGST's...it's not that good. Very weak bass and top end performance, sounds slightly "vague" which is probably due to the massive offset on the output. They are proper VU meters with a drive circuit hidden underneath the main PCB. I'll try to take some pics today to show how it works. There is no hum at all but I'm not happy with the common heater (center tapped) for this thing. It is running the cathodes at -380VDC so any heater/cathode barrier is long gone

Well thing has arrived: When it showed up it didn't work and the balance input still doesn't work. This is cheap...and I mean cheap. The chassis work is beyond crappy and when it arrived both volume controls were loose. Circuit wise it is really just an Egmont with a 10M90 plate load and a tale current source for the input stage. Some huge omissions though such as any way to balance or control the offset of the amp.

Thanks for this guys. I had lovely day with great food and even better people. The weather was perfect too and even though it is midnight, the sun is still shining.