spritzer

The 10mOhm is simply the size of the bleeder resistor for Sennheiser headphones. Not recommended for Stax usage as they work best with 4-5mohms

Hmmmm let me think... .... insane prices for what you get, really bad build quality, horrible circuits that Rudi barely understands himself but are so simple a child could build them. For 10k? I'd expect something more then a 12ax7 tied to EL34's. Heck I'd just buy a Dynaco 70 and put in a new input stage and have a similar amp... for 500$... Talk to me again when you reach 30 phones and have to find a way to store them all...

You can even find RK50's on ebay of all places....

You'll buy them some day, thats all that matters. It's so nice to know what speaker you are going to buy and keep for the next 30 years, not like those dynamic idiots that drift from one coffin to the next.

Rudistor is crap because he is a crap designer and the build quality is beyond horrible. There are many broken Rudistors out there but you can of course not talk about that on HF. Add that to the pretty bad parts quality and high costs and they have nothing going for them. File with McAlister and Ray under "buy if you have no sense or don't know any better".

You should be fine with a 400v voltage swing. That has nothing to do with the bias.

It is mostly SS so no wonder it needs to warm up. The Blue Hawaii is pretty crummy for the first 3 hours but then begins to shine. It's all about the voltage so it's really the gain that is important. The transformers are so horribly undersized that they don't need all that much current.

The Stax amps aren't really taxing so it could be well past 10000 hours. I think I'm close to that on one of my sets and they still sound great.

The tubes are so cheap that I can't be bothered to shut it off. I guess I'll be burning through a lot of tubes once I get my tubed CDP...

I would stick with the 006t and upgrade further to something like a KGSS, KGST or WOO GES. I do prefer the T1 and it's really good when it's been powered on for about 3 days and more. The SRD-7 need so little current that they will be fine with less than a watt but the amp should have more headroom so 3-5w is sufficient. I'll be getting a Dynahi soon and I'll outfit it with Stax transformers just for kicks...

THe RK50 is in a league of its own. It's the standard pot in the Kondo preamps and the upgrade is a huge Shalco switch with hand made silver resistors. Costs something like 3k$...

Thats an understatement...

There were some slight changes in the 12 year lifespan of the SRM-1 Mk2. The boards were slightly altered, components upgraded and the internal wiring upgraded to the PC-OCC stuff used in the T1. There were also 4 different versions of the SRM-1 Mk2, normal bias only, Pro with one pro bias socket and one normal, P.P. with two pro sockets and ATR with two pro sockets and a stepped attenuator for the pro market. C with a very high (5500>) serial number should be the best

They can be if everything else is equal as thicker diaphragms give the bass more thump and an open backed SR-lambda does plenty of that. The fiber glass muddles it up a bit though

No they aren't. I bought a large lot of them for about 30$.

Ohhh, I called it after the page name but DC tube driver will do just fine. I'm going with 0A2's and the sockets for them should be here soon. I like pretty lights... Then I'm only short the 6H30 tubes...

I was a bit worried that you had a Lambda Pro Classic as they are often sold in Germany as the real thing. I like the Pro Classic/Spirit though, maybe even more then the normal Pro's. The Normal Lambdas are even better at doing the rock thing with the 2um diaphragms.

The Head3 design is pretty simple to build if you opt for NE-2's instead of the 0A2's. A lot less space is needed and the 0A2's plus sockets are more expensive.

Here Just use any PSU you want but the Blue Hawaii unit would work. I'm slowly gathering parts for this one and I'll build it one day.

That is a good design and is the same as Woo Audio uses in their Woo GES amp. There are a lot of Stax amp designs out there but most of them are in Japanese. The Tubecad design is also pretty good and simple and a little more interesting is the other Gilmore tube design.

I'm not crazy... much... If you are talking about that combo with a silver SRM-1 Mk2 then that is a real Lambda Pro. It says Professional on the top of the earcups so they are the real deal. If yours are unmarked then they are Normal bias Lambdas that could have been upgraded as they are the only Lambdas with unmarked top plates. Regarding the Pro's then I'm far from the only one that doesn't like them. They were slammed by the reviews back in the early 80's but seeing that there was no competition they sold a huge number of them.

I'm fairly certain their are reading the tread but all progress is good. They do look a lot like the HE90, more then any other headphone I've ever seen, but it's fine to learn from what others have done. There are no patents on the HE90 as Sennheiser did nothing new though patents are awarded for all kinds of silly things now that aren't even original. I would hope that they do something about the large rear grill making it either slightly concave like on the HE90 or damping it like Stax did on the SR-Ω. Loud levels with lots of bass information could make it store energy and that is a big no,no in driver design.

The Monitor is anybody's guess as they are a SRM-1 Mk2 with the horrible diffusefield eq built in but people bid like crazy on these things. The SRM-1 Mk2 is a better amp then the SRM-252 but it depends on which version of the amp you would buy. There are A, B and C revisions with significant variations depending on when they were built.

Hmmmmm....

The transformers or some other part of circuit could be going through some warm up or there is dust or some other debris on the electret diaphragm that is causing some charge migration or shorting out the driver. What you are describing is the eventual death of all electrets and that has nothing to do with charge migration. The diaphragm is permanetly charged during manufacturing over its entire surface so there is no bias ring or surface resistance resisting the charge.