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Everything posted by spritzer
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Take a look at my new Blue Circle SBH Headphone and preamp
spritzer replied to Frihed89's topic in Headphone Amplification
Thats an understatement... -
There were some slight changes in the 12 year lifespan of the SRM-1 Mk2. The boards were slightly altered, components upgraded and the internal wiring upgraded to the PC-OCC stuff used in the T1. There were also 4 different versions of the SRM-1 Mk2, normal bias only, Pro with one pro bias socket and one normal, P.P. with two pro sockets and ATR with two pro sockets and a stepped attenuator for the pro market. C with a very high (5500>) serial number should be the best
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They can be if everything else is equal as thicker diaphragms give the bass more thump and an open backed SR-lambda does plenty of that. The fiber glass muddles it up a bit though
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No they aren't. I bought a large lot of them for about 30$.
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Ohhh, I called it after the page name but DC tube driver will do just fine. I'm going with 0A2's and the sockets for them should be here soon. I like pretty lights... Then I'm only short the 6H30 tubes...
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I was a bit worried that you had a Lambda Pro Classic as they are often sold in Germany as the real thing. I like the Pro Classic/Spirit though, maybe even more then the normal Pro's. The Normal Lambdas are even better at doing the rock thing with the 2um diaphragms.
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The Head3 design is pretty simple to build if you opt for NE-2's instead of the 0A2's. A lot less space is needed and the 0A2's plus sockets are more expensive.
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Here Just use any PSU you want but the Blue Hawaii unit would work. I'm slowly gathering parts for this one and I'll build it one day.
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That is a good design and is the same as Woo Audio uses in their Woo GES amp. There are a lot of Stax amp designs out there but most of them are in Japanese. The Tubecad design is also pretty good and simple and a little more interesting is the other Gilmore tube design.
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I'm not crazy... much... If you are talking about that combo with a silver SRM-1 Mk2 then that is a real Lambda Pro. It says Professional on the top of the earcups so they are the real deal. If yours are unmarked then they are Normal bias Lambdas that could have been upgraded as they are the only Lambdas with unmarked top plates. Regarding the Pro's then I'm far from the only one that doesn't like them. They were slammed by the reviews back in the early 80's but seeing that there was no competition they sold a huge number of them.
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I'm fairly certain their are reading the tread but all progress is good. They do look a lot like the HE90, more then any other headphone I've ever seen, but it's fine to learn from what others have done. There are no patents on the HE90 as Sennheiser did nothing new though patents are awarded for all kinds of silly things now that aren't even original. I would hope that they do something about the large rear grill making it either slightly concave like on the HE90 or damping it like Stax did on the SR-Ω. Loud levels with lots of bass information could make it store energy and that is a big no,no in driver design.
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The Monitor is anybody's guess as they are a SRM-1 Mk2 with the horrible diffusefield eq built in but people bid like crazy on these things. The SRM-1 Mk2 is a better amp then the SRM-252 but it depends on which version of the amp you would buy. There are A, B and C revisions with significant variations depending on when they were built.
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The transformers or some other part of circuit could be going through some warm up or there is dust or some other debris on the electret diaphragm that is causing some charge migration or shorting out the driver. What you are describing is the eventual death of all electrets and that has nothing to do with charge migration. The diaphragm is permanetly charged during manufacturing over its entire surface so there is no bias ring or surface resistance resisting the charge.
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While the quality of the conductor matters it much more dependent on capacitance and how the dielectric handles high voltages. Most of the "cable specialists" don't know a single thing about that. Unless somebody is willing to have a silver version of the Stax Wide cable made I'm sticking with it.
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They are electrets so there is no recharging as they are permanently charged.
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I certainly hope so. I'm not expecting miracles but it should be clear step in the right direction with the updated output stage. I will also save a bundle as there is no need for volume pots on any of my new amps.
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Damn, deaf UE9 fanboys...
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APL Denon 3910 fully upgraded to the latest 32 bit dacs. It's on its way now to APL for the upgrades and I should have it sometime in December. I'll get an NWO later on but this will be great until then. Now if I could only get the replacement drive for the G08 so I can sell it...
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A cheap-ish adapter would be a welcome addition with the sky high prices of any Stax Pro units.
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With most of my listening done of the SRM-T1 it is set at between 9-10 o'clock with a slightly less then 2v source so that would be normal loudness for most. At this volume level I can listen for hours.
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Better driver mounting if they copied that from the HE90, tweaks to the earpads to find the best size and shape of them, replacing the outer grill as they could ring due to their design, the housing could use some tweaking but it's hard to see unless I have the phones in my hands. It's really nice to have some competition in the electrostatic market as all those dynamics are ever so boring and I'm running out of phones to buy... Repairs shouldn't be a problem if you can buy everything extra with the phones, drivers, bunch of earpads and extra housings. Has anybody inquired about that?
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Designing an electrostatic headphone is far from rocket science but they are borrowing heavily from the HE90 and HE60 in the design and driver mounting. There is nothing wrong with that as I've borrowed a lot from Stax in my own research and learned from their mistakes. The product has clearly evolved as they now use leather pads as the old velour ones aren't suitable for planars. They've also done some work on the drivers or how the mount them but that cable has to go as the specs clearly show how much of an effect it is having on the phones. 140pf is very high but there could also be some shunt capacitance increasing the load. These phones could be pretty good with a few mods but spend 500$ on a wooden housing for the SR-404 and there should be some real competition though it's really the SR-SC1 it has to beat. I would take one for the team but I just spent some 8k$ on a new source...
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That is a pretty easy to get confused about. I bought a 1977 SRD-X some time ago and it should be fun to experiment with. Still siting in the Rinkya warehouse though... \ Add a 4 pole pot, some extra parts and you are set. There was a thread on this on HF where I was helping a T1 owner midding his amp but he didn't post any impressions.
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Please share the schematic if you can since we know next to nothing about these beasts.