spritzer

You wouldn't be the first to go down that road. You could even add a HE90 connector in stead of the missing Stax plug. Ehhhhhh.... now I feel violated....

It's still here but I'm saving it for a later this week when I'm going to spend some quality time with the Blue Hawaii.

It's nice to the see the old warhorse get the respect that it deserves. I'm using the SR-? mostly now as I'm too scared to plug in the SR-007A... If that midrange "honk" wasn't due to the new tube in the APL then I might have to try and pull a MarkL on the new SR-007's...

Allied has stopped carrying them so your best bet is to find a SRD-4 and remove connector. Some of the Stax distributors might still sell them in small quantities...

Looking good!!! Smart move to leave the drivers and baffle in peace as it can be a pain to mount them.

Welcome to the mafia.

An update is in order. The player has been sitting here useless for about a month now as it had started to distort and had very little bass output. APL wasn't much help as Alex is in Europe but I suspected the tube to be the culprit as the player was fine on day one. The tubes I ordered just came in and the player is playing just fine now. I must now receive punishment for the epic fail of not having spare tubes but I just don't care as the sound is sublime and that from a SRM-T1 driving the SR-007A The detail retrieval is impressive and small overdubs can be picked up with ease while never being intrusive. Bass is tight and controlled though the amp and can combo makes it less precise then the BH/SR-007 mk1 would be. Everything else is good but I need a lot more time to get to grips with the sound but first impressions are just that... impressive.

Sign me up for a few cables. If you need any ashes from the many volcanoes here just ask. Jules Verne said Sn

MarcE cables are notably superior to everything else. Massive amounts of cryoed micro bearing damping material will do that

You might get more bass slam with a more powerful amp but the standard power ratings mean less then usual when it comes to the adapters so it's tough to tell. Very different to say the least. The 323 isn't as lush and rounded as the T1.

How about a plastic helmet that we can wear, with a breathing apparatus, so it could be filled with some gas like Dayton-Wright did for a higher bias voltage??

Happy birthday!!

Obviously...

Damp cardboard and +/-350v.... \

I believe it was either a modified KGSS or a normal BH. I'm sure Kevin will chime in when he can.

What it really needs is a power meter Mac style. Bigger is better here and with enough led's to light up a room.

Ray perhaps...

I could be wrong but they might even be as few as 12.

Yup, it's the indicator light.

Yup. We need something like an oversized GES with better tubes which are also plentiful and cheap. Shall we say a quartet of ECC99's and GU50's for output duty.

The Sigma 11 will work fine on the 252, just remember the polarity.

I replaced the burned up resistor in the 007t with a new one (3 actually in series) but there is still something wrong with the amp. It plays fine but the balance between the output tubes on the left channel is way off as a small change in the pot and I'm up to 300VDC or more with the LED's lit. When it's close to 0V the LED's aren't lit. Btw. Has anybody ever installed 6SA's in a 007t as per KG's instructions? Bingo!! The newer mk2/A is more impressive though as the lower midrange hump is fixed so they seem to have great bass on nearly any amp. Damn... already broke that one...

You better or you might get a visit from the mafia enforcers...

That's the basic thought. Yama's might have put something instead that requires different biasing and is burning up R13. Done deal!! I'm going to see if I can't find the 51K resistors locally and replace them tomorrow. Now I'm off to bed...

That's one option but I don't know where I'd put the massive heatsinks...