spritzer

Famous last words... I said that once but still bought 140+headphones to try and find something that is better. Didn't happen and that same Mk1 is still here 5 years later.

I paid around 20$ for replacement drives and if you can swap a drive in a computer you can do it in a G08. You might need to flash the firmware though (new drives as the old ones are discontinued) but it's easy as pie with a null-modem cable.

There was an intro price on the SR-007Mk2 just after it was released (2k$ if I remember correctly) and the Mk1 was discounted before the release. I should have bought a backup set but like everybody else thought that the new model was going to be better...

I would definitely open it up after the transatlantic journey and see if every thing's ok. This goes for every amp though but with Mikhail's' "special" build quality I would never plug them in without looking them once over.

My guess would be SR-5's. Certainly big and round but I demand pics!!!!!

The new pads are much easier to install due to the use of pleather and not leather in the flanges. This isn't easy though but the first time is most certainly the hardest.

Red ring of Death i.e. one more dead 360.

Stax doesn't have a lot of business sense then. One pack of blutac is enough for at least 10-20 headphones, if not more. Just remove the pads already!!!!!

They are very good but Beyer had massive problems (bad coating material) and they weren't cheap to make.

They have travelled quite a bit since I sold them. I would buy a Koss extension cord for the cable and just add a 6 pin Stax plug to it. Remember that the Beyer was designed for 180v bias so don't even try Pro...

I don't doubt that Mikhail said it was going to be a 14A supply but he just didn't do what he said he would... as usual. I'm not an EE (I can make some great bread though) but simply put there is no way in hell that the transformer in that PSU can output 14A unless Mikhail can manipulate the laws of physics. Considering how he specs the resistors in his amps, he may think so...

The truth may be that there is a 6A winding on the main transformer so together they give 14A. Perfectly logical way to do things but since Mikhail seems to be incapable of telling the truth he spews some BS instead. As for a response, why don't you ask him if you amp has in fact 6 channels... it has 3 double triodes after all.

Sounds like the usual Mikhail BS to me. He could have wired it up so the primary is setup for 230v and the secondary for 12.6v which cancel out each other for a 6.3v output but the windings can only handle so much current. Somebody should really teach Mikhail the old saying, "when in a hole, stop digging!!"

They certainly aren't bad and I love my "obsolete" dac's. The APL isn't all that bad though

That's where the ESP950 comes in.

...and slowly, but surely, damages the diaphragms in his phones. "My amp is so good that the phones can't handle the level of awesomeness..."

Happy birthday dude!!!

Not helping... The SR-007A will match my BHSE though...

That's what Marc said they do a few posts back.

That's Bob Anderson or randerson(some numbers) as he's known here. I've started to chant, "I don't need a Mk2... I don't need a Mk2..."

i.e. arcing between the wires. Try to arrange the wires for maximum separation and even insulate the terminals or just remove the cable and send the phones to Koss.

That wouldn't happen to be an ET-1000 with an ever so sexy gray adapter cable...?

That removes one nasty possibility. Didn't you just split open the housing and replace the cable or did you remove the drivers as well? I don't see how dust could infiltrate it if you just opened up the housing.

The gap between the stator and diaphragm is only 0.5mm and the dust can be much smaller then the to cause a nasty squeal. It is also on the inside of the driver so you have to take it apart completely. One question though... when you were soldering the wires, did you have the drivers completely covered so no excess flux could burn its way through it?

Might not be dust but the terminals on the driver arcing. If it is indeed dust then taking the driver apart and blowing gently on the diaphragm and stators (remove any residual charge first by shorting the Stax plug) should get rid of the particle.