spritzer

With 56W of Class A per side I'd just build a BH with dual power supplies and an upgraded +/-15v unit. It could be built on a budget since there are cheaper substitutes for the SA1968's and the SK389 isn't really an issue any more. If the BHSE turns out to be different enough from my old BH then I'm going to build a stock one since I just loved that thing. Didn't the T-30 use a slightly less extreme version of the T-50 driver, more like the SS-100? Very nice indeed then...

I do have a transformer on the way that would work for that amp... The ES-1 will probably be next though after I finish the Egmont but who knows what I'll do after that.

Very few do. Putting some leather on top of the foam should work very well but you could just as well use something like the Stax SR-5 earpads or AKG. There was no point in keeping it with no dynamic cans and it only pulling speaker duty.

The seal is the key and so is the ability of the headband to provide enough tension. My Koss bastards I started off this thread with sound great when I push them towards the ears but the horrible headband can never do that on its own.

Only one problem with that... I have no dynamic amps left. :'( Good to have that cleared up. When I got my first SR-X Mk3 I also thought that it used cotton pads with a vinyl back...

Amen brother!!!

I usually buy my pads from Japanese retailers through deputy services so I'd drop Craig at KuboTen a line and see how much a set would cost. The Mk1 pads are around 5800-6000Yen but the new pads are more expensive despite being only partially made out of leather. That's what I thought too. That guy from Poland is always saying that his set had cotton pads which makes less then no sense given the planar nature of the drivers.

The SR-007 and SR-Ω are the only headphones I can wear for hours at a time without any discomfort. The older model has got the edge though as the pads are much bigger (the whole headphone is quite a bit bigger) so they are less claustrophobic. One set went for close to 100kYen recently so this has nothing to do with sound quality any more. Btw. Do you remember what material was on the earpads when you bought them? There has been this debate on HF whether they were pleather or not. When I got my Chocolate set it came with Beyer leather pads and frankly sucked. The SR-007 pads brought much needed focus to the table along with a general upgrade in all areas.

x2 It's the only way he'll learn.

There is always something that I'm hiding...

I highly doubt that they are in any way similar, let alone if the v6.0 is made in Norway. The cost of making one unit in overhead alone is much, much higher then in the US let alone the Far East so the parts have to be cheaper to maintain the profit margin.

It's run by the guy that founded Electrocompaniet. Now thanks to you lot I'm looking into the V2.0 integrated amp for my speakers. Here I was hoping I could get away with a cheap NAD or Onkyo...

Ahhh.... well then the YH/HP-1000 should be nice but there we are right at square one again.

Now it more then stands up to its little brother but the tone is a bit different. The SR-3 has a "thicker" tone, more lush with an over damped bass so it thunders a bit but deep bass is always limited from these small drivers. The SR-1 is a bit thinner and more open then the 3 and dish out a surprising level of detail for something this old. The bass is limited by modern standards but what is there is tight and controlled. Both do have this... ehhh.... horny feeling to the sound so they are a bit larger then life but that reflects the era in which they were designed. Hell, the LP was only a few years old when the SR-1 was introduced.

T-50 v1... if you can find one. The donuts weren't miles off once fitted with SR-007 pads but still had a ways to go.

Nahh, but it's nice to know ones roots.

I was using the SR-1 for the first time in a long while and found out that there was some connection problem in the left side as it dropped out from time to time. I had noted the corrosion on the contacts when I first opened them up but since they played just fine I left it. Big mistake since now that I've gone to town with DeOxit and some sandpaper I have bass and an expansive soundstage that wasn't there before. Nice to see that grandpa still has some life left in him.

The Stax wires have only one level of insulation so the wire isn't easy to twist permanently. The Senn wire does have two layers so it's easier to twist. Just to clarify, the gold plated pins are an indication that the wires used are PC-OCC which the SR-303 uses. This is the only way to discern the rare black, non-wide PC-OCC cable from the OFC variant. The SR-007 is the easiest to fix of them all, just rotate the earpieces until the wire is untangled. Threading the rest of the cable through the Y-split also works just as well.

Yeah WTF?!?! Similarities as in there are caps, resistors and opamps used in both or the design as a whole?

x2!

Very nice!!

Cardas GRFA rca sockets are a pain to works with. You need to sand the shell to get a good contact which is just .

There is always a light twist on Stax cables so some is normal. Some examples have been worse then others with the cable badly done to begin with.

Yeah. \ I recently checked most of my Mullard stock and one of them is borderline so it's a good idea to have at least a tube checker handy. That tube has seen a lot of use in the old BH so may it rest in peace.

The BH uses EL34's and if the RCA's are really Mullards then they are very good tubes. They need to matched and tested though before even coming near the BH.