spritzer

Just get some screws from Stax. Might cost a fortune though...

It will also be a lot easier to replace then that DVS crap Meridian and everybody else is using.

It's next to the two metal arcs and it secures the headband. I would just drill it out and then use a wisegrip to remove the stub.

The portrayal of soundstage depth and over all size has a lot to do with how the drivers utilize the ear or rather how they are positioned in relation to the ear. The housing also plays a large part so I don't think that a better source helps in this regard.

I used some sandpaper to get the solder to stick and I don't know if you can buy the nuts separately.

Nope I didn't try that. I was going to try air damping them via solid mylar dust covers but the drivers can't take being handled too much so I dropped the idea.

You could, in theory at least, use the old forks with the new arc. They are just held in place with a single screw on each side but I've never tried to do this. Is your old arc broken? As for the Jade... they are growing on me after the mods. They are still abnormally forward which and have weird tonality which is probably due to the membrane and I don't want to swap that out. The midrange is very nice though there is something that's bothering me. I can't quite put my finger on it but there appears to be a mild texture on all voices. The bass is more subdued and better controlled but more like the Lambdas then the Omegas. I could try to damp the drivers somewhat but the less times I open up the housing the better as the lead wires on the drivers could break and that would be a PITA to fix...

All the dimensions are identical but you have to remove the metal inserts on the cups since the pins are much larger on the new forks if you are going to replace the whole arc assembly.

Tell me about it.

The SR-404 is very comfy and the same thing can be said about the Sigma's too even though they are huge. The Jade drivers are now back on the headband thanks to some new and much improved screws. Changing the cable and sealing the baffle has benefited them greatly and the only real now complaint is the flat soundstage. The bass is still uneven and boomy but I doubt I can do much more to fix that without a new enclosure. Btw. Don't ever drop the Jade as they will not survive it. The headband is guaranteed to break and the housing is very thin. You have been warned!

You could possibly break the socket if you did that or get a nasty shock from the PSU if the pliers aren't well insulated. You could also get the seller to make you a new adapter with different pins.

The later brown color is quite bad and I don't see how they could have dropped the beautiful chocolate brown of the Lambda Signature and SR-Omega.

I just tried some different glues for reattaching the pads and none of them work. There is simply not enough area to play with so I may have to use liquid glue like Mr. He uses but that is the last resort. I also removed the blutak from one ear piece and then added it back in 3 steps and the difference is quite startling. Before the bass is loose and boomy (for an ESP) but it is much more controlled after it is all sealed up. I may end up leaving some part of it open though as I don't like them fully seaked. Either the blutak or the new cable has also cleared up the upper midrange so they aren't harsh any more but there is some extra texture on the midrange that I have to work on.

...or we could just use transformers or some monster Krell mono blocks.

I've been crazy busy so not much time to compare but the blutak seems that have cleaned up the bass quite a bit but it's too early to tell. I will only work on Michaels set and no more though I'll report what I did as usual.

That BHSE is the sechs but I need some silver in my life. I'm not sure when he got them but you can check in the HF thread. I haven't had much time with them today but I believe I managed to tame the bass somewhat with the new cable and sealing the baffle. When I get some suitable glue for the earpads I'll know more.

Way too long.

There are some similarities but the HE90 has a solid baffle which the driver is attached to which is in turn attached to the wooden back. It's quite clear that the HE90 is the blueprint for the design but there are some interesting twists such as the housing is angled and so are the pads. Not nearly enough but it helps create that flat soundstage.

6 wood screws and there is nothing to to seal the baffle or dampen vibrations.

That ranking system is way off... I'm crazy but not that crazy. ...and to prove my last point, some internal pics of the Jade. Taking them apart is a pain but mostly just removing the screws which hold the housings to the forks. Those that have opened up a HE60 know exactly what I mean. The drivers are quite well designed and very robust. That dust cover has to go but other then that the drivers are great. I put those markings on the drivers if anybody has to open the phones up at a later date. As can be seen, the pads are a mess. They are held down by some liquid glue which is applied with no care what so ever so it gets everywhere. Due to the design it would be hard to use double sided tape but some metal spring would work perfectly. Here are the drivers back in the housing and after I added some blutak to seal the baffle. There is really nothing to stop the baffle leaking so this could help but I haven't done any comparisons yet. Finally they are back together. I'm far from done so I have to find some way of attaching the headband temporarily as the screws get old real fast.

In a general sense there is nothing wrong with the SR-007 Mk2 but as a successor the the Mk1 they are seriously fucked up. Btw. Jade recable is done so stay tuned for all the gory details in a few hours.

These phones are supposed to be from the same batch but I don't believe the difference is contributed to anything but the crap build quality. I have tried many different types of diaphragm coating and while there are changes they don't manifest as a static sound and mostly affect long term stability of the drivers. What will contribute to the sound is just how badly the earpads are mounted to the housing and the total lack of anything to seal around the drivers. I'm going to open them up today so I'll know better what I'm working with. Removing the port from the equation removes the midbass hump and restores the much more natural bass response of the Mk1. You can use what ever you like to plug the port or even use felt so that it will be partially open if you prefer it like that. My version of the mods is to restore the phones to the Mk1 sound but you can go some other way as well.