spritzer

They're planar so instantly cool.

The 717 is rated at 450v RMS which means it reaches 600v P-P easily but the final voltage the phones see is tied to the volume level. Now whether or not this is a problem depends on the cap and the circuit. The piece of tape hides part of the circuit though and I couldn't make out the colors on the small resistor which is above the tape. To save bandwidth, why don't you just upload the pictures here? The site accepts 4kx4k pictures up to about 8mb.

Hopefully not but driving something out of spec is never a good idea. Just ask Mikhail...

I'll take a look and see if these won't do. I do see one potential issue though, the cap is only rated at 250v \

Those would be great but anything above 3000 is a better...

The Accuphase it designed so that you can put one of their EQ units in the digital path both via a special link and the bog standard S/PDIF.

Could you post a high-res picture of the resistors and the cap and how it is all wired? As for not wiring up the bias... that's what I'm here for.

So any change?

For me it's nice to have all the outputs and the Lite wasn't available back then. I really wanted the BNC output though as it really is 75ohm. Batteries are ehhh.... yeah.... I'm going to build a Sigma11 for it...

A tweaked BH should do the job nicely. I could even build a tube PSU for it and charge 65k$... since you know... moar is always better.

It sure looks strange with so few outputs.... I do highly recommend a replacement PSU for it as it works well on my unit. If you have an old Iomega Zip drive then that PSU will work very well.

This stuff makes the SR-Omega look hassle free... Ohh and Doug you count as you are always offering to send me the TakeT...

I've never tried the new pads but it is the same material as is on the SR-Omega and SR-007 pads.

Ditto!! Andy is a nice guy and who of us haven't sent cans to somebody we have never met?

The foam was just extra dust protection and so that those with protruding ears would have something between them and the protecting grill.

If the change in sound from a cold to the amp being at regular running temperature is large enough then I'd run it 24/7 but you are eating up a lot of juice and shorting the life of the capacitors dramatically. Like Doug said it is always a good idea to discharge the phones if you are storing them for any long period of time.

There is really no reason to keep the phones charged as they will be recharged in a fraction of a second.

Masking tape? You could spray it but it would never look nice and it would have no resale value.

Perfect!!

Holy crap!! That ranks up there with the ESP6 I restored and that was a crummy headphone from the 60's and not an R10.

I think it needs even more Duggeh... preferably one of your long signature posts.

I believe they use a similar type of panel as ML (powder coated sheet metal) so there are no dust covers and the drivers are often glued together. I'd start checking the bias supplies though before the panels.

Why ohh why can't I be in the states....

The 6. rule of HC, no lol crap here