spritzer

Congrats on being one year closer to death...

That is the 6BX7 Stax amp that was very popular in Japan in the mid 90's. That particular amp was built by the guy which owns the SR-Omega fan site in Japan. The T2 has no links to the 007t as that is just a variation of the T1 design. The BH was Kevin's take on the T2 type of amp.

Old Maggies tend to delaminate which is supposed to be a real pain to fix but other than that... go for it!!

Can you show me how you wired it? It's been well over a year but I'm certain that the stock Koss cable can't be rewired for Stax duty without cutting off the plug. I would remove the foam and replace it with anything you have handy. The major damping is done by the felt pads at the back of the driver. You could also swap the foam for wool and line the crappy enclosure with bitumen. Brilliant news to say the least!!!

That's sounds like a great plan, Dan... ... and kudos to Justin as usual.

The diaphragm should charge up instantly or there is something wrong. Amp warm up is another matter though.

That could definitely work but I'd still use WBT sockets.

I think Dan could live with being a bit uncomfortable with a DynaFet in those boxes...

This is also probably the reason why so many ES-1's had the output sockets wired the wrong way around.

Has anybody tried the PCB variation of these sockets? Might be easier to work with...

I'm in for some Dynafet....

You most likely need to take the bottom off as tube amps are built upside down with everything mounted to the top plate.

Must be the viking blood as they spared no one....

That's makes for a great reason to build one.

I'm in for what ever you need, cash, parts or what ever.

There are some variations amongst the ESP950's but as with most of the Koss versions, they aren't well documented. I have come across a set here (quite old) that had more damping then the newer units. I would start off removing all foam and if you want to go hard core, remove the black filter on the metal grill. Btw. The screws and underneath the pads which are just pulled off. I just read though it and I may compile some more impressions later on and add them but that looks good.

This is what happens when I compose a sentence in Icelandic in my head and translate it directly. Do you know get why Bj

Some more on the Jade. I've been using the Jade exclusively for the last few days but tonight I simply couldn't take it any more and went back to the Omega's. The sound is simply too strange for me to be able to handle, the top end is strident yet has no extension, they do voices well but the rest of the midrange is fucked up and the bass has no extension, bloom or timbre and simply bounces along from one resonance to the next. Now there aren't many headphones which I've simply given up on (the Jecklin Floats are the only ones I can remember and that was due to comfort) but I'm at a loss as to how to make the Jade even tolerable. Ohh well I guess I have to sleep on it... The screws are indeed fixed to the plate which then in turn holds the drivers in place. Have you removed any of the damping from the ESP950? Koss were a bit overzealous with the damping...

Just get some screws from Stax. Might cost a fortune though...

It will also be a lot easier to replace then that DVS crap Meridian and everybody else is using.

It's next to the two metal arcs and it secures the headband. I would just drill it out and then use a wisegrip to remove the stub.

The portrayal of soundstage depth and over all size has a lot to do with how the drivers utilize the ear or rather how they are positioned in relation to the ear. The housing also plays a large part so I don't think that a better source helps in this regard.

I used some sandpaper to get the solder to stick and I don't know if you can buy the nuts separately.

Nope I didn't try that. I was going to try air damping them via solid mylar dust covers but the drivers can't take being handled too much so I dropped the idea.