spritzer

Yup and add to that a transformer coupled tube output...

That's probably just the transport acting up so it could be a good deal. Denon sold a lot of these players so it shouldn't he hard to source a replacement drive or just send it back to APL and have them do it. As for my player, I can't see that I will be upgrading any time soon as the player has everything I could ever want, CD/SACD/DVD-A capability, built in volume control and a digital input. It uses a tube which is excellent and in current production so there is no tuberolling non-sense. I do wish it was silver (I may gut one later on and swap panels) and I need to find a good, yet small 230v/117v transformer that can fit inside it but that's all. While writing this up it looks like Plitron may have some 100VA units that will do the trick...

The stock Esoteric is nothing like the APL "sound", at least when compared to the 3910 version of the "mods". Not surprising really as there is nothing stock left after the transport.

Happy Birthday fellow recovering headphone addict.

It's still here but I don't have an amp to use it with yet. It's a brilliant source though and has worked flawlessly after I got some new tubes for it.

Computers and flat screens are some of the worst polluters you can find. A separate circuit from the breaker box which just feeds the audio gear.

The utter lack of any planar driver in that speaker is simply unforgivable!! I take it that I can trust you to throw out that tweeter and install some SFI's instead?

Rebar/steel is more then enough to create a Faraday cage and it doesn't mess as much with your head. I use dedicated lines but there are also quite a few solid silver PC's here...

While I'm not a great believer in the plating on the AC plug making a huge difference I've spent some time testing AC cords and they do make a difference in some cases. The problem is all our own doing with all these switch mode supplies, wi-fi and etc. sending a lot of noise back onto the mains which the gear can pick up. Then there are the issues many are facing, even with 20 year old electrical systems, the wiring wasn't designed to handle the load of a modern home and often the grounding scheme is a joke. One solution is to just throw a shit load of money at bling cables or rather just fix the problem, either with isolation transformers or dedicated lines.

Nahh that's only about 20%... the rest is ice cool from the glaciers.

Why do you use aluminum over there in the colonies? The only thing we are allowed to use here for in-wall wiring is 16-18AWG solid core copper.

Besides color and the finish on the plastic, they are all identical. There could be some small changes to the baffle though but I'm just not sure.

It's alright Marc, we all know about your current calculations... Too soon??

Something like 150-200w. In case you are wondering... this is a serious headphone amp.

Looking good Doug!!!

Tape FTW!!!

..... ...... "I'm in my happy place, I'm in my happy place..."

They shouldn't be run for long periods with out a load but it is ok to run them once and a while like that.

Hogwash!!!!

I've never encountered the dreaded squeal but it could be due to the close proximity of the wires in the cable entry. You can try adding some heatshrink to them to see if it makes any difference.

Nahh I'm still going with crazy... Needs moar silver!! Why not ask Mikhail about it...? I'm sure he could use the cash...

Good move as I really don't have fond memories of my old BH arriving with the BG's pushed into the chassis... \ What color did you choose my crazy elephant friend?

If both amps use the same rail voltages and the PSU can cope with the load I see no reason why you can't use a single PSU to power both amp sections, one at a time. The loop out is just another set of sockets wired in parallel.

Billable Hours