spritzer

Being a nation of drunkards the weekend starts on Thursday and ends on Saturday night which makes Monday night the middle of the week.

Could be the beer or that fact that you are drinking on a Monday. Strange things usually occurred when I drank in the middle of the week...

Santa Claus??

The tubes is the Stax amps last a long time and they sound ok at low volume levels and into an easy load like the HE90 or a Lambda. It's when you want to use headphones that are hard to drive or need more volume is when things go down hill, fast. If this is the topology then the GES should have it beat (let alone the new version) and Ray is going to have a hard time explaining why the 300$ PoorMan amp can rival his expensive monstrosity. We may be thinking of two different amps but the only one I've seen with a "Koss" socket didn't use the normal Koss connector. It was more similar to the Stax typer of plug, circular but the pins arranged differently.

Happy barfday...

The only source I can think of is the Koss extension cable but they have to be modified. Cheap as chips though...

The 6SN7 is a bad choice in the Egmont (the reason I'm using 6S4A's) just as the 6CG7 is a bad choice in the Stax amps. I think the only voicing Ray did was not understanding what a CCS is and thus made an amp that Stax could have sold in the late 60's. By pure chance that works brilliantly for the HE90 and Jade and they really don't need a ruthlessly reveling and powerful amp behind them. Well you are just about the only one with a Stax cable on your set...

That thing has to be one of the ugliest amps ever made. Does Ray even know what subtle means? There are quite a few that have also done this besides Chord. The tube names are silk screened on the chassis but I can only make out the 12AX7 for that center tube. It's hard to tell but the output tubes could even be 6SN7's and then Ray (who is probably running the whole thing off one filament supply) is going to enter a world of pain. The SR-007 not only needs a lot of voltage swing but more importantly current. For that you need a massive CCS on the output tubes with the necessary heatsinks and that's far, far beyond Ray's capabilities as an "engineer".

The squeal can be any number of things but some debris stuck inside the driver could be the reason. The dustcover on the front of the driver looks like an afterthought and the back dust cover is of the same caliber as the Jade.

The "problem" with the brown models is that they aren't very photogenic. They look much better in person.

Now if they had only stuck with the dark brown cable used on the SR-Omega they would have looked even better. \ Btw. Nice avatar pic...

A simple question, is there a charge up issue when using the E/90? All these headphones are just a blur to me but I think I bought them about a year ago from Mapstec who had the recable work done.

Very Dartzeel of you...

That should be enough to get the SR-007 going. For those that don't know, the Dayton-Wright speakers were driven in a sealed pocket of gas so that they could be driven at higher voltages then what normal air allows. That accounts for the truly terrifying voltages.

That reminds me, have any of you seen the second edition of Morgan Jones's "Valve Amps" book? Crazing the cover is his Daughter of the Beast 'stat amp with a HEV70 socket which he some how managed to get Senn to sell him (it's a part of the front panel so he had to modify it). I really need to buy a scanner... Fischer was definitely out of the question as those connectors cost a lot of dough and I guess the custom units are just cheaper all around. Koss could have stayed with the 5-pin Amphenol plug on the ESP/950 but the new one must have been cheaper.

I'm not sure if I posted this here but since I had to update the pic today I might as well post it here: First off the disclaimer. This is live AC voltage you are working with so do this at your own risk. If you do not know what you are doing have somebody that does take a look at it. While I've tested the 240v and 117v versions and it works fine this is posted without any responsibility on my part for any damage due to Stax changing the design at some point. This works with my two C-series SRM-1 Mk2's and my B-series SRM-T1. This is only intended for those amps that didn't ship with a voltage selector plug. If it did come with one... then use that then! The picture above is how the rear of the socket should look like but Stax often changed them around to have the component only for one voltage. If it reads 100v (or 117v, 230v etc.) only on the back and there is no plug in the voltage selector socket odds are that the socket is wired differently. It needs to be changed to the above configuration or the amp can catch fire or worse. Since there are two white wires I marked them on the picture, AC power in and from transformer. The AC power comes from the power switch and is in the upper row. It is connected to 3 pins while the other white wire is in the bottom row and only connected to one pin. That one is connected to the primary of the transformer. The only other pin that has more then one connection is the gray one. You can connect to any of the joined pins as they are all the same. Here is the list. You need to put a jumper wire between different colors where the + sign is. There are always two different connections per voltage with either two or three different colors. 240v configuration Gray + Purple AC power in + Blue 220v configuration AC power in + Blue Green + Gray 117v configuration Blue + Purple + AC power in White + Gray 100v configuration AC power in + brown + green Gray + White

Now that does make sense. I guess I'm being a bit thick today as I had one of those for my HE90...

There should be a pair of damping layers arriving at his door some time this week...

Who would cut off the plug? The socket I get but why the plug... Anyway looks good though I personally prefer to put something on the back of the WPI plug (some plastic housing of any old plug which I superglue to the WPI) to make them longer and thus easier to grip.

I'm going to be able to audition them locally (just bought an amp for the occasion... ) and the price is very fair so if I do like them, I'll buy 'em here. That said I don't have high expectations as I very much prefer to be gradually won over rather then a few OMG moments followed by growing resentment...

NAHH AHH!!! It's the awesomest amp around with a massive voltage swing!!!

Rip off the pads and there are 4 screws underneath. Remove those and the baffle is loose so proceed to remove the cable. I wouldn't put any other cable instead of the Stax one and send them in like they are.

Ditto.

Yeah, the +350v connection for the bias supply should come from the emitter and not straight off the rectifiers. I've done pretty much everything I can think off to fix this (two separate PSU's, changed the diodes to UF4007's, removed the bias supply entirely, changed the caps used, tried two different but identical transformers) but still no change.