spritzer

That should be enough to get the SR-007 going. For those that don't know, the Dayton-Wright speakers were driven in a sealed pocket of gas so that they could be driven at higher voltages then what normal air allows. That accounts for the truly terrifying voltages.

That reminds me, have any of you seen the second edition of Morgan Jones's "Valve Amps" book? Crazing the cover is his Daughter of the Beast 'stat amp with a HEV70 socket which he some how managed to get Senn to sell him (it's a part of the front panel so he had to modify it). I really need to buy a scanner... Fischer was definitely out of the question as those connectors cost a lot of dough and I guess the custom units are just cheaper all around. Koss could have stayed with the 5-pin Amphenol plug on the ESP/950 but the new one must have been cheaper.

I'm not sure if I posted this here but since I had to update the pic today I might as well post it here: First off the disclaimer. This is live AC voltage you are working with so do this at your own risk. If you do not know what you are doing have somebody that does take a look at it. While I've tested the 240v and 117v versions and it works fine this is posted without any responsibility on my part for any damage due to Stax changing the design at some point. This works with my two C-series SRM-1 Mk2's and my B-series SRM-T1. This is only intended for those amps that didn't ship with a voltage selector plug. If it did come with one... then use that then! The picture above is how the rear of the socket should look like but Stax often changed them around to have the component only for one voltage. If it reads 100v (or 117v, 230v etc.) only on the back and there is no plug in the voltage selector socket odds are that the socket is wired differently. It needs to be changed to the above configuration or the amp can catch fire or worse. Since there are two white wires I marked them on the picture, AC power in and from transformer. The AC power comes from the power switch and is in the upper row. It is connected to 3 pins while the other white wire is in the bottom row and only connected to one pin. That one is connected to the primary of the transformer. The only other pin that has more then one connection is the gray one. You can connect to any of the joined pins as they are all the same. Here is the list. You need to put a jumper wire between different colors where the + sign is. There are always two different connections per voltage with either two or three different colors. 240v configuration Gray + Purple AC power in + Blue 220v configuration AC power in + Blue Green + Gray 117v configuration Blue + Purple + AC power in White + Gray 100v configuration AC power in + brown + green Gray + White

Now that does make sense. I guess I'm being a bit thick today as I had one of those for my HE90...

There should be a pair of damping layers arriving at his door some time this week...

Who would cut off the plug? The socket I get but why the plug... Anyway looks good though I personally prefer to put something on the back of the WPI plug (some plastic housing of any old plug which I superglue to the WPI) to make them longer and thus easier to grip.

I'm going to be able to audition them locally (just bought an amp for the occasion... ) and the price is very fair so if I do like them, I'll buy 'em here. That said I don't have high expectations as I very much prefer to be gradually won over rather then a few OMG moments followed by growing resentment...

NAHH AHH!!! It's the awesomest amp around with a massive voltage swing!!!

Rip off the pads and there are 4 screws underneath. Remove those and the baffle is loose so proceed to remove the cable. I wouldn't put any other cable instead of the Stax one and send them in like they are.

Ditto.

Yeah, the +350v connection for the bias supply should come from the emitter and not straight off the rectifiers. I've done pretty much everything I can think off to fix this (two separate PSU's, changed the diodes to UF4007's, removed the bias supply entirely, changed the caps used, tried two different but identical transformers) but still no change.

It could work and provide some nice damping characteristics at the same time.

Thanks. I could have done a much better layout if I hadn't set this up as a recession amp, made only from parts I could buy locally or I had at hand. I'm really going to regret those carbon pots soon... Still it has a lot of bling with silver and gold plated cables. It isn't easy to work on these amp contraptions with my god-like hands.

Here is a picture of the Egmonts guts. The problem I'm having is with the PSU (the old KGSS design) which I had already and was the only thing that fit the chassis. While the - side of the supply is fine the + side has a lot of AC on it (some 800v ) which I can't figure out what's causing. Kevin has offered to take a look at a PCB to see if they are the cause or that he can mimic what I'm experiencing.

I would take a SRM-1 Mk2 over the SRM-212 any day but 250$ isn't a bad price for a system that costs 550$ new (though with the 252 amp).

That's what you get when the damping layer is removed. I'll have to check but I could have some mineral wool I pulled from a Lambda. Just PM me if you need some and I'll check. No SMD soldering needed

Ditto. Has the KT77 even been tested with a BH circuit?

Construction appears to be very similar to my old Svetlana branded set (Winged C Svetlana before they split up). Now if I could remeber what those cool black glass EL34's were called...

From the pics I've seen they were SED but it's the new production Mullards that will be included with the amp. The SED's were by far my favorite new production tubes when I tube rolled the old BH (2004/05) but they pale in comparison to the old XF2's. Just did some digging and there is a new version of the SED's out. Not cheap at 90$ a pair but could be very good...

I would get an anti-static one if you have the chance.

The 717 and the Egmont w/a BH PSU aren't up to the BH level but more then good enough for that crap.

That would be a transistor then... Buy a solder sucker is all the advise I can give you. In a pinch you could take a small piece of wire and place it next to all 3 legs and heat the wire with the soldering iron.

How the diaphragm is tensioned and the glue used to hold the drivers in place are probably factors as well. I have a vintage SR-404 on the way that I'm going to rebuild with different types of glue to test that theory (and have a new test headphone for amps as well). It is quite astounding how 11 phones which are almost identical can sound so different.

What sets them apart isn't all that much in the grand scheme of things but to my ears it's a big break for the character of a Omega headphone. For the first time they have "a sound" which is super imposed on everything (like the Jade, He90 etc.) and that is a deal breaker for me. As another example, lets compare the LNS and the SR-404. Both phones are nearly identical except for the diaphragm material yet sound completely different. Throw the SR-SC1 into the mix and there is the third type of sound, all from the same ingredients. All of the Lambda phones sound very similar to one another but a small change goes a long way.

Just give me a shout if you need some BH PCB's...