spritzer

Damn cancerous Neotech wires...

Something simple I assume?

The Woo6 has output transformers so you are switching between multiple taps.

Pure win.

The PSU used by Rudi is an absolute turd, a simple voltage doubler and it runs at a much lover voltage (+/-260v) then I'm running the basic KGSS PSU at (+/-350v). I was pretty much stuck with the KGSS PSU due to space issues and that I wanted to use my 30$ R-core transformer which didn't have split secondaries. I could have used a similar PSU as Justin is using in the BHSE but that would be overkill in every sense. Now given the design and tubes used by Rudi he would have had to use two PSU's to be able to use any higher voltage then +/-260v given the limitations of the ECC83 input tubes. The ECC99 is pin compatible, can handle much more voltage but has less gain but I could live with it. It's also in current production, sounds great and I have a bunch on hand for use in the APL. The largest flaw of the Egmont amp circuit are the 6SN7 output tubes. These are almost the same as the 6CG7's used by Stax in their amps so have all the same issues. Not enough power or voltage handling (though there are higher rated versions of the 6SN7 available) plus they are far from cheap. The 6S4A is a much better fit with more power handling, higher voltage rating and they are cheap since nobody uses them. The biggest problem with the Rudistor amps is the bias supply. It's a fuckup of epic proportions with huge caps that aren't going to be kind on the resistive coating on the diaphragms.

I can't imagine going back to unwieldy commercial cables. I can wrap my cables around two fingers and they weigh next to nothing.

I would rate it on par with the SRM-T1 so not bad but not great either. It has a bit more extension then the Stax amp but it's also not as smooth with a slight edge in the midrange and treble. I'm not done with it as I'm going to add feedback (a cap and a resistor per phase) and swap out the plate resistor for the 6S4A's. The 47k/5W units run at 70-80

Woot I made a thread without even being logged on! Fear my Norse god powers you mere mortals!!!

Ehhhh no, and I've tried all the possible models except two. I miss mine badly and it's almost been a year since I sent it off to Justin. Lack of time, other projects and our crumbling economy are slowing down my plans to build my own versions so I'm stuck with the Egmont (soon to be fitted with some feedback) and the 717... :'(

The Fostex sure needs serious power so don't try something like a HD600 in Marc's amp.

Hmm, 400$ for two amps plus headphones and a CDP? That's a bargain compared to the highway robbery Fedex are charging for just the amp to Iceland.

I can also hear a profound difference between digital cables... Btw. Marc I want

Here is the schematic:

Well I have an idea where you can shove those DBT's... Whether you believe in cables or not (or connectors for that matter) every SR-007 owner should try different cables, leave them in the system for a couple of weeks and then change them back. If you can't hear the difference between a cheap cable and something better with the SR-007, go buy a markl modded Denon and some Rudistor amps.

The electro magnetic fields (tiny as they are) might interact to some extend but as Nate said, the amps are a bigger bottleneck. I wonder if braided power cables aren't a big no-no then?

Yeah, moar power is always needed. The SR-007 also likes silver IC's so some DIY could be in your future.

As some might know Porsche has released a new 4 seater which wouldn't be news to us except it has a Burmester audio system with... wait for it.... AMT tweeters. Here is the story So Douglas, start saving up those pennies...

Mine certainly didn't but there are two very different versions of the Bitstream out there.

If you want that authentic hammered effect, feel free to send it to me and I'll give it the full Thor treatment. Hammertime!!!

They sure look like the SR-3 drivers and they could even work on Pro bias, given the bias switch on the back of the unit. They were in fact very good back in the day and the later X amps were very, very expensive.

Here is the Stax answer to the stacked Quad ESL, two F81's in a row aka F-83. This will make most amps cry if not blow up. It's still easier to drive then the F-81 at 80dB/1w compared to 77dB/1w.

Anybody need some spare 1960's Stax drivers?

If blowing on the outer side worked then there is something stuck inside the drivers. There isn't a solid (i.e. film) dust cover on the back so you were able to shift what ever debris which is causing the short. You could try opening up the drivers (I've never done it so I'm not sure if it is even possible) or add some damping to the back to give the bass a bit more punch.

Happy birthday!