spritzer

I sure hope they come pre-assembled.

It's what you do best, curring round holes in metal plates. Just buy one of these and some sockets... Now can anybody tell me what this is..? I want...

Ahh now I understand what you are getting at. The cap will certainly do no harm and I suspect that Stax added them when they were having issues with ripple. I know Justin also added one in the amp chassis in the BHSE, probably to make up for the long wire from the bias supply and the close proximity to the filaments on the way. All of the SRD-7's have a series resistor (I have the schematics for most of them) but it's been too long since I opened up the small Stax amps to be sure. The 313, 323, 717, 007t, T1, T1S all have them.

Can you drill some holes in a chassis and do some easy soldering? If so why not DIY one... or better yet, make Nate do it for you. You can get a 4 pole stepped attenuator on ebay for next to nothing and XLR's sockets are cheap.

One thing our crazy baby elephant should note, I'm fairly sure you prefer the more "audiophile sound" of AC-coupled amps rather then the brutal honesty of DC-coupled units such as the BHSE. You may like the extra power when listening to Umbrella remixes at silly volumes but the BHSE will show you just how much crap they are. For the HE90 that may be the case (never heard one but I should get the PCB's to build my own one day) but it lacks the sheer overkill of the BH amps i.e. larger tubes, more voltage, more current etc.

I did indeed leave the protection devices off the board but this is essentially a niche design for modded transformer boxes so I'd assume the users know better then plug it into a 400W Krell amp and listen at full output. I have the schematic for the SRD-7 Mk2 bias supply as well (which has both outputs) but frankly there isn't much need for the NB output. You also just need two resistors to drop the bias voltage so it is easy enough to accomplish. I could fit that to the PCB though... The 5M or so resistor is absolutely needed, not only for safety reasons but it also sets the constant charge mode of the diaphragm. I don't see how a cap across the bias line could work since the bias is DC and that can't pass through caps. I've at least never seen a cap in that position and even the oldest Stax schematic which I have at hand (Feb 1961 SRA-6S) shows a 5M ballast resistor.

If he did stumble onto something worthwhile then he fucked it up royally with sheer stupidity and recklessness. Almost every part is right on the limit if you are lucky or far over it as is often the case. Then we have the horrible build quality of even the "good" units. All wires on top of each other with no support at all. A single 4" wire may even have up to 3 pieces of wire connected together and then heatshrinked for some unknown reason. When you know more, please drop me a PM. A bad amp is something like the HEV70, E.90, 313 or the A-10, the rest all have some merit. In its stock form the ES-1 simply lacks the power it should have so the bass is too loose, the midrange too recessed and the top end rolled off. The soundstage suffers too and lacks a lot of the forward projection it is capable of. Removing the offset takes care of most of that but the sound is still a bit loose and when you push the amp hard, audible distortion shows its ugly head. There is a fix for that but I just have to install it.

Thanks.

Given the evidence gathered from quite a few amps (including the one Elephas has) via detailed internal pics he never strayed that far from the original schematic. The resistors used were almost never the same between two amps and a lot of series/parallel stuff going on but since he appears to have bought a lot of stuff cheap from surplus sales that makes sense. The use of filament transformers a main transformers is the result of him finding a bunch of them for next to nothing.

If you can find some of the Kimber braided cords cheap then they would be a good option. I know that Russ Andrews in the UK sold them but they present a new definition for expensive...

The fit could have been due to worn pars (which you'll never see on the outside) or the arc's have been modified to fit the owner so they don't work for you. Now for something different, I need some input. I have a SRD-7 Pro PCB all drawn up but I'd like to know if you thought it was a good idea to place jumper's on the PCB for the signal coming out of the transformers. All the input wiring is there but I'm not sure if Stax passed the output though the PCB too on the older models. A pic but it is much smaller then this to say the least, roughly 4*2.3".

There is next to no variance when it comes to the basic circuit. They are all sitting at a -100VDC offset which severely limits the output voltage. Remove it and the amp has promise. The basic Stax circuit was specced at 0-5VDC.

They are Abyssinian so no stripes. Just got word that one of them is named after me.

Never underestimate the effect of overkill...

Nope, no brennivin for me. Trying cut back on the stuff after a bit too much Stroh80 did a number on me.

Ditto but 6 years here.

It doesn't matter how the drivers are facing unless the spring inside the earpads is moving with them (they are connected but should be independent) and is thus changing the angle of the drivers.

Sure is. The ES-1 is starving them of power to say the least.

The earpads, cable and arc all rotate independantly so you can find the best fit for you. I place the seams at a slightly higher angle upwards but it's pretty much the same.

Hell no!! I'm not clicking any links that Justin posts after last time.... ... ...

Say it ain't so!!!!! Where is the pretty picture of my old SR-007A...?

Bring the amp. The 313 is... ehhh... lacking... Have the seams on the earpads facing front and slightly upwards. That works best for most people.

Mushrooms and a lot of them...

Nice!!

Mikhail v2.01?