spritzer
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Everything posted by spritzer
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Now you make me want to find yet another SR-Omega. I do need to find a broken set to see what makes them fail...
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86-71-6S is actually the male plug but the picture on the Allied site shows the back of it. You stick the wires through the plug to solder them.
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There were close to 250 units made but exact numbers are hard to come by. The prices varied quite a bit in those days since Stax changed dealers in the US quite often just before they went bust. A few of these sold for 6500$ with a SR-Omega back in 1995. In the more stable markets in Europe it cost 7000€ and with a SR-Omega it sold for 9000€. The Japanese prices are even more stable since there has been next to no inflation there in 15 years, a SR-Omega MSRP was 180kYen and the SRM-T2 was 468KYen. The SR-007 Mk2 is the first price increase of and Omega set since 1993. Stax know that we have the schematic and would like us to keep it under wraps so that's how it will be. They are fine with a couple of DIY amps though.
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The heater current does appear to be the same so why not give it a try. Just measure the transformer temp to see if anything strange is going on. I do think that 6S4A's are the best option since they can take 500V easily...
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Ditto on all accounts.
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It just shipped from the US yesterday so I haven't even seen it yet. The SR-Omega is long gone and I just have a Mk1 007 here. I should have had a Mk2 arriving soon but it was damaged prior to shipping so I will get one later on.
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We might just take you up on that...
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They are mostly detailed shots of the underside of the PCB. Certainly not the schematic which will not be released. I haven't gotten the amp yet but given the low level hum Kevin was hearing I'm guessing the high current AC filaments were just grouped in with the other power lines without any shielding.
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I bet everybody knew this was coming but we've been moving fast and the board is taking shape. If it's not clear from the photo then this is a massive slab, 16" x 12", so quite a bit bigger then the production version. It will be built like the BHSE with the board mounted to the top of the chassis, with the tubes sticking out of the top and the components on the bottom. Massive heatsinks are needed to keep this beast cool and a single angle bracket is used on each side of the board to connect all the parts together and make assembly just a bit easier. To honor the Stax legacy the following will be printed on the board: "With the utmost respect and admiration for Dr. Takeshi Hayashi, a living legend". For those who don't know, Dr. Hayashi is the designer of the T2 and also the son of the Stax founder. Without his great vision and talents we wouldn't have the quality of phones/amps we have today. We will keep you updated as the project moves forward.
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I thought the King of all headphone amps would deserve his own thread. This is a beast of epic proportions, 11 power supplies, an overload of CCS and it draws close to 300W from the wall. I'll be updating this post later on with more specs about this monster. Well, here are some pics for your viewing pleasure. They are huge so may take a while to load.
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Do something more hardcore, a single 9pin plug to two 9 pin sockets with an external filament tap so that you can use 6S4A's in the T1.
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Doug is all about DIY now so no pre made bathroom will do for him!!
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Caps are just like resistors, right? I bought an online DIY course from "supra_buyer" on ebay and he taught me everything I know.
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That's good news indeed. I really have to get my ass to the local distributor one of these days since they are only 15 min away...
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Not when you have to find caps to work at those voltages. Then there is the issue of most resistors only being rated for 500v etc. I must say though that the thought of a single ended SS electrostatic amp with a transformer on the back does intrigue me quite a bit.
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With 'stats, everything matters... It should be a blast with plenty of cool electrostatic stuff. I'm planning a high-end transformer box and then there is the T2 DIY version, perhaps a DIY Egmont amp plus what ever Kevin brings. The box is a bit anti-climatic when compared to the HE90 unit but it does its job... It was probably a mix up at some point, at the original Stax dealer or even Stax in Japan. I've never seen a 520 or higher S/N so they are certainly some of the last ones made.
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It likely doesn't but team overkill doesn't use filters where something much more drastic/expensive/moar awesome can be used.
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Congrats Al and if you bring them to CJ'10 then I'd be happy to go over them for you. AFAIK there were no black T1W's, only different shades of the gunmetal gray.
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They aren't needed if there isn't anything to filter. There is so much gear in our homes now which pumps switching noise back onto the mains which why we need filters now but not 30 years ago. Run your audio system on a dedicated line and there isn't anything to filter out. If any of my gear has a switching supply then I run it through an isolation transformer but no filters anywhere.
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Ouch!!!!!
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Most Sennheiser's have a diffuse soundstage where you can't accurately pinpoint the sounds location. I haven't heard the HD800 yet but the HE's and the HD6x0 all had this effect, which is a bit like listening in a fog compared to something like the Omegas.
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You know the rules, pics or ban!!!
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Why do I have the feeling that this applies to most amp layouts...
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Even more awesome!! Speaking of SRD-7's, I got the Pro bias PCB's yesterday and hope to test them today or tomorrow. The only issue I have with the design as of now is that the fuse holder I'm using is too tall (the plastic cover touches one of the transformers) and one resistor pad is too close to the metal support for comfort. Nylon washers should fix both issues.
