spritzer

A bunch of Belden hookup wire. Thanks Marc.

They are rather common and we even have tiny ones which nobody knows how to use. They are indeed much safer so they are the go-to solution for the urban planners here. One recent neighborhood has nothing but roundabouts on the main street and it's annoying to say the least. Something like that. It was just a backup if all went to shit which luckily didn't happen. I will be making a huge chocolate cake tomorrow for one of the collages in the neighborhood so a lot of material will be used there.

It's no use, 90% of people don't know what they are doing out on the streets. Roundabouts are the worst even if they have only two lanes max.

Thanks for that. My German is much better then my French... I even had a plan C ready if the second one would fail, a massive chocolate cake, covered with more chocolate and lots of berries. Yup, but only after the second cake was safe and sound in the cooler where the reception was held. Later on I stood up on the stage in front of 150 people and told them the whole story.

Happy birthday buddy!!

Just woke up after a long day yesterday. One of my oldest friends was getting married and I was naturally in charge of the cake. To cut a long story short this was a 5 tier monster covered with marzipan, ganash and decorated with fresh berries to feed 150 people. At roughly 3 PM I was going to drive it to the other end of Reykjavik where the reception would be so that I could be ready for the ceremony (on the other end of town) at half past 4. Now you should know that Icelanders don't know how to drive under usual circumstances but most just go apeshit on the cramped streets of downtown Reykjavik. Needless to say I came across one of these idiots who ran a stop sign right in front of me and I had to break hard while being greeted by the lovely sound of cake being splashed on the inside of the van. The cake was all over the car with just a bit of cream and the bottom parts still left on the stand so completely totaled, nothing could be saved. Now this shouldn't happen under normal circumstances but we had been fighting to make the cake stable the entire morning so instead of the cream being a nice solid mass, it was fluid. After a good 5 minutes of screaming and cursing I got back to the bakery, cleaned the stand and started on cake number two. I always anticipate the worst so I had enough materials to make a second one and we managed to pull it off in less then 4 hours. I had to go to the ceremony but I popped back after it to decorate the cake which my brother had worked on in the meantime. That one did make it to the reception and everybody was very happy with the end result. Phew to say the least... All is well that ends well I guess and if the old Icelandic sagas are to be believed, this will reflect well on the marriage.

22AWG should be the way to go then but it is strange that they don't have it on the datasheet. It really is one of those things that a designer would like to know... Perhaps there is some general spec sheet for this line of connectors where this could be found?

It's certainly the size of the pins, not what wire they would accept. "Contact Size #20". If you are using the solder cups version then I'd guess 16AWG would work but it's only guesswork. What current are you looking at here? Ohh and the Speakon thing was just a jab at SP.

I hear that the Neutrik SpeakCon's are excellent for umbilical cables...

The Lambda Sig is a solid choice but so is the 4070, HE60 and SR-SC1 for a livelier treble response. In theory it should work just fine given how similar the tubes are but I would monitor the temperature of the amp carefully to see if the transformer gets too hot from any extra current draw.

A welcome change and I'm even a bit tempted to buy one of these...

Happy birthday!!

Depends on what you do wrong...

Tru dat but firing up something like this for the first time is a bit scary. In a basic tube amp like the ES-1 the resistors are large enough to take some level of fuck-up before all hell breaks loose.

Having to shake resistor parts out of your hair while trying to shut off the fire alarm make it loose its charm just a bit.

No Exactly. Mistakes take the form of various parts reaching airborne status and catching fire rather spectacularly.

I'm sure Justin will chime in later but here is a short guide: 1: let the amp warm up for at least two hours (maybe more since I'm not sure when it is running at full temp) 2: place the probes of the multimeter between the + and - output for that channel (in the Stax socket seen here, red in the + output, black in the -) and adjust the back pot for 0VDC. 3: Now remove the black probe and connect it to the shell of a RCA socket on the back (aka ground) and adjust the front pot for 0VDC. 4: Repeat for the other channel.

It will be different from the stock amp with higher power output and better PSU.

The SRM-600 spec sheet is out. Japanese only though but there are some interesting specs there like the same voltage swing as the SRM-007t...

This really isn't the project to show off your arcy-sparky skills. With 100+ transistors plus dozens of diodes it will be pretty hard to troubleshoot it if something were to go wrong. Expensive is also the name of the game here with the resistors alone at roughly 300$ and that's mostly using the cheap PRP's. Upgrade to Riken's and things get very expensive. Btw. If there was ever any doubt, the T2 sounds bloody fucking fabulous. It's more mellow and less intensive then the BH.

Just buy one of these. They are designed for adjusting those pots. How about one of these soldered to a spare RCA plugs ground and some wire. These tip jacks are similar to what is used on the ES-1.

I once saw an Accuphase A-50 cake on a Swedish forum so a T2 cake is certainly doable. I can also print on paper you can eat (it's made out of glucose) so getting the fine detail is certainly possible. Breads are a lot harder to control...

Spiffy!! Now you just need some SFI plugs...

Ssssshhhhh Stretch!!!!!

I could only find one crappy picture of the top of the BHSE PCB but it looks like the offset (gain) pots are towards the front of the chassis and the balance pots towards the back. To adjust the balance you put the probes of the multimeter into the + and - output of each channel and adjust for 0VDC. The gain is adjusted with one probe in the + output on each channel and the other probe connected to ground on the amp, adjust for 0VDC. Please wait for Justin to verify this though before doing anything...