spritzer

Happy Birthday!!

I just got my VC99 and first impressions are good. The build quality is pretty good and the screen is nice and clear. It also handled adjusting Stax bias just fine where most cheap meters overload the bias supply and thus give the wrong voltage. Looks like Marc has nothing to fear from me...

Toshiba has some cool N-channels (2SC5563 for instance which goes in the upgraded KGSS) but no P channels to match.

The Blue Hawaii is the ultimate amp for most people. It may not be the end all amp it would take a lot of money to make something noticeably better. What I'd like to see is just how far we can push SS amps since the BH and T2 take good care of the tube side.

Two and on the AC and the smaller ones are for the HV PSU

Great impressions but now we need detailed internal pics of both sides of the PCB so that we can know what Stax really did in this rather rare amp...

Happy Birthday!!!

Justin would have to confirm it but the BH design calls for the tubes to be run at 20W each.

I'm in

Ditto but I will change it to a BNC soon. BNC input on my Audio Sector Dac1

Not well enough apparently since the SP motto was to have at least 2 joints (insulation optional) in any length of wire...

The Trends UD10.1 has a BNC output and so do other USB based transports.

Happy Birthday!!

It would require an adapter but it would work.

The Lambda Pro Classic/Spirit was its replacement and that was released in 1992 so somewhere around that time.

No arguments here...

You are doing well my young friend but you need more overkill and frankenphones. Before I went nuts I had a SR-007/Blue Hawaii but even that wasn't enough to stop the evil thoughts from appearing, "I wonder how those crazy Sigma's would sound..." etc.

75ohm coax cable and 75ohm BNC's are you are set.

True but I really believe Mikhail would be up for the job.

It would have exploded...

I wouldn't expect wallwarts but a whole other league of crap is certainly a possibility based on what we've seen from other Extremes.

If you can open it up and take pics then we should be able to see what needs to be done. The screws are probably very well fixed in place (he put some adhesive on them so that nobody could open them up) so I'd buy a few 1/16" hex keys since you bound to destroy at least one. Some pliers also help.

It wouldn't hurt to match the 389's but I really wouldn't bother. It should be easy enough to bend the leads on the LSK to the right pattern.

If I had the heatsinks and could therefore link the singles into a double unit, then I'd use them but I do have a small stash of 389's so I continue to use them instead. The LSK389 is supposed to be better so I might just use that instead when I run out.