spritzer

Mk3 with the improved parts but the sound of the Mk1...

Hand drilling is fun until you mess up. I spent the last afternoon trying to drill 32mm holes into the top of a Modushop chassis where all the air slots are with a stepped drill. I really need a 35mm+ punch....

Happy Birthday!

Happy belated BD!!

Hehe... Turns out I wasn't crazy when I heard an increase in the bass and the whole sound was a bit more forward. The DC-offset went down 50% with the cap change so no wonder things perked up a bit.

Nice!!!!

Happy Birthday!!

Yup. by far the most stupid idea on HF in a long while.

Well I finally broke down and swapped out the caps in the T2. There wasn't anything wrong with them except being 15 years old, but they could have been the source for the hum which sensitive phones like the SR-003 pick up, so they had to go. First up, a couple of shots of the underside of the PSU board since it had never been removed before: The old parts were all good quality so I went a similar route, Panasonic and Nichicon caps with one Black Gate FK thrown in for good measure. The hum is still there but less of it. I must be crazy but there appears to be a little more bass slam. Stay tunes for hourly updates as the caps burn in...

How about we get Tyll drunk and "lease it" though a dummy corporation?

I'll deal with Ray while somebody swipes the amps.

Nice!! Screw that RoHS crap...

I simply vastly prefer silver components over black. Mixing the two is fine but a large, dark monolith isn't to my liking.

Just bought a stock 3910 for a song to have some spare parts and ultimately make my APL3910 a little less black. Dusty certainly wouldn't approve...

...or just silver that doesn't suck?

Well if they do arc then I can send you some 1.4um or 0.9um Mylar-C to get 'em going again.

Try calling Yama's and tell them the cable on your Lambda is foobar. I'm guessing though that it would be cheaper to get a SRE-725 extension cable instead.

There was some talk on AA but like Deepak said, they aren't budget speakers. Get some MMG's if you want cheap planar goodness...

Have a great day Al and try not to let any magic smoke escape!

Yes, to some degree at least. The bias is the potential of the drivers so smaller drive voltages are needed but they will still be a tricky load so current is again the name of the game here.

I'm sure they were being a bit conservative so a 400v+ bias voltage could work. The bias is governed by the square of the D/S gap so if the gap is 0.4mm then 500v would work. A SR-007 works just fine at 750v...

A change in humidity can make them arc or higher drive voltages. Hell with that bias, looking at them the wrong way can make them arc...

Nothing would beat that brainless combo.

Indeed I meant that. That's what I get for staying up past my bed time. Work in less then 5 hours...