spritzer

Given the pics I have of the P1 it looks like there are multiple primaries and a simple ohm meter would be enough to figure out which is which. The P1u does appear to be limited to what ever region it is sold in though...

Some gainclone parts. Time to build a tiny integrated amp...

Good to know even if the dac will only be used for testing new amps. I had read somewhere that the opamps were some really cheap units but OPA77's is good news. I'll probably install some sockets though and try some 2604's since I have them at hand. All caps will be changed to Nichicon FG's. Now the only problem is getting the damn thing out of customs...

Happy Birthday and the Super Bowl is indeed tonight.

I'm thinking powder coated silver with black heatsinks and a silver top panel. That gun metal finish Stax used on the original would be very cool too...

It's a bit amazing just how tenacious the SP curse is, even my 100% rebuilt amp hasn't escaped it completely. Just about the only SP item I reused was some of the old wiring for the filaments. The only reason is that it is rather large and being solid core, can be twisted tightly and once fixed in place, stays there. The problem is the insulation though, it melts and splits even at low heat. So one of the times I fired up the amp this week I cued up the first song and half way through it got quieter and quieter until distortion crept in. Hmmm, I looked at the amp, all leds lit and so were the 7n7's but the EL34's were dark. All voltages tested just fine on the PSU so it had to be the fubar filament wires yet I found nothing wrong with them or my soldering. I moved the wires around a bit and the problem hasn't resurfaced in the roughly 40 hours the amp has been in use since then but the wire is clearly cursed...

I perhaps there was some good reason that I just wasn't seeing...

Looking good but why are the sockets upside down?

Solid core has the advantages of being a single strand so easy to spiral onto the pins and make a very secure connection. Ohh and you are wusses for not doing this all with the socket mounted in the chassis with no real access to it...

Sure does plus PRP's and Nichi ES's...

Holy crap, I haven't seen that much since I was a kid. You should try driving up here. This time of year the sun is always at eye level...

Given the amount of bad tubes he's shipped out over the years I really can't see him testing them. A boneheaded move for him but that's Mikhail for ya, one stupid idea after another.

I'd recommend heatshrink but it was hard for me to use since I had two wires on each pin, the wire from the tubes and then a loop out to the Fischer socket. Solid core wires would also be a good choice here...

Great connectors but make extra sure you don't short out the wires with a stray strand. The R- and bias pins are pretty close together...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2595[/ATTACH] Ohh hell yeah,this could pass for a Viking smiley. Can we add this one. pretty please...?

I use one very similar to this and it works well with wires from 28 and down to 12 which is the largest I've tried. I'm so happy with it that I'm going to buy another one tomorrow...

Couldn't have said it better....

Some black Sonus Faber speaker stands for my Spendors. Too good a deal to pass up even if the speakers aren't exactly the right shape...

The only issue for me is that the Jade has a 5 pin XLR and some idiot might think those two are compatible.

What about a Lemo connector? They are available in 5 pin and short of somebody believing they were a HE90 socket it's easy to see what it does. Not cheap though but pretty well made.

For me I have two complaints about the Mk2/A, the midbass hump is caused by the port Stax put into the cable entry to get rid of the fart issue. Plug the port and it is gone. My second complaint is the midrange coloration which is rather similar to what the SR-404 has. This is caused by the increased height of the earpads to help make the phones more comfortable for people with ears that protrude more then the norm. To fix this I alter the spring inside the earpads, make it flatter and wider so it grabs the sides of the earpads. I'm not sure that EQ can fix these issues, certainly hasn't worked for me with the SR-404 in the past. You always need another 'stat... It's a subtle change but it's there.

The older G-series is very nice, especially the newer G-500 and the 80's G-560. Wouldn't want to pay for the gas though...

I got an email today from Mouser and the last of the parts should be in stock in April. A long time but better then the late July date in the last estimation...

There isn't much you can do with these cars without being able to access the built in computers so DIY is pretty much out. Even in the harsh climate here (i.e. a constant salt bath) they have been pretty trouble free and no worse off then the BMW's, Merc's, Porsche's, Audi's which are quite a lot of here. The service for RR's is also excellent here since more cars were sold to Iceland then all of Scandinavia combined...

I was replying to Asr's post above mine, not criticizing you. I can understand liking the 4070 over an Omega but with Lambdas there are better choices such as the ESP950 and the HE60 IMO. I never look at the price though, I simply don't care the slightest bit short of the 3-4K$ limit. If you've never spent time with the Mk1 or SR-O then they are great and most wouldn't be bothered by the apparent colorations. They are a lot like the SR-404, all in all a great headphone but all that is taken away with a relatively minor coloration that ruins everything. Now mod the Mk2 and I put them on par with the Mk1, slightly more forward but very close.