spritzer

The KGSS I built (using the Headamp PCB's) was quite a bit better then the 717 so it is well worth it.

It's best to use a can which allows you to spray into the switch and the rotate it multiple times to try and clean off the layer of oxidation.

Odd indeed. Strange behaviour like this can present it self when you have a driver which has arced quite badly so there is some carbon left on the diaphragm. This will shorten the D/S gap and cause the oscillation and other weird stuff to happen of the bias is raised a bit. Most of the SRD units are running a bit below spec (since most of them were made in a time when the NB spec was 200V and not 230V) plus the load resistors are generally smaller. Now assuming you set the bias with a meter that didn't overload the bias supply causing it to sag and thus give out more voltage in real life this shouldn't be an issue but it has been known to happen. As for the diodes, they shouldn't fail but you can safely remove them to see if it is the problem. I always did when working on NB phones since most of us know the dangers of overloading the drivers.

As for using KuboTen, you just register and then place bids through the form on their site. It's not as interactive as Rinkya but neither will Craig throw out part of your purchase or charge insane amounts for shipping...

717

It's overload protection (diodes) also found on other low bias phones.

Yup, SRM-1 Mk2 is a solid choice but do adjust the offset/balance and replace the PSU caps.

Happy Birthday!!

Probably corrosion on the cotacts inside the (ELMA?) switch. Caig Deoxit is perfect for this stuff.

Nope, not yet. I was tempted to pickup one but I'd have no use for it. Just drop KG a PM.

So... how much beer do I have to buy for you to design something similar for my SR-Omega drivers?

Happy Birthday!!

Very nice but try to use more force when shaping the piece to make it rounder.

That would make sense but somebody might be tempted to use Holco's (i.e. cheap but good) so it's better to ask. So something like what Stax are using on the new SRM-600? [ATTACH=CONFIG]2697[/ATTACH]

Very nice and great use of spacers to elevate the parts. I'm wondering what those small black resistors are, since they look a bit like Holco's which would never work at these voltages. The ESX is very cool, with TO220 power resistors and even a CCS for the output stage should you choose to use it.

As Kevin points out the plan was simple, copy the brilliant amp circuit but improve on the rather weak PSU design. Throw in a good PCB design, premium parts, real heatsinks and we should have a real winner on our hands even if it is a bit costly.

The proper version of the ES-1/2 (i.e. what I built in my ESX), with a few cool twists, which fits in the same chassis as the T2. The PSU is 100% that of the T2 and it uses the same compliment of 4 noval tubes (12AT7's for lowest distortion) and four EL34's.

As many of you know, APL is being flaky as ever so I might as well keep my 3910 since it works well for my needs and sounds pretty good. I do have two major problems with it though, first of it is 117V only and the second, it is not silver. The solution for the latter is pretty simple, I just bought a Japanese 3910 for very little money (which are champagne colored) so I'll just move all the trim parts over and gain a replacement drive too boot. That player hasn't arrived yet so I'll tackle it at a later date. As for the issue of 117V, well an outside step down transformer is just a pain so why not try to mount one internally? Since I was ordering some transformers from SumR I asked Richard what was the smallest 100VA unit he could build for me and as it turns out, he could make one that fits. Cheap too for a custom transformer. It is a very tight fit and I had to get a bit creative with some of the regulators and caps on the board. Now the old IEC inlet has to go and since I can't remove the back panel (relays and other circuitry is glued to it) I might just use a Powerkon instead. It can be mounted behind the panel for a clean look and it is a far better connector then the IEC. I'm not particularly proud of that "metal working" but since it is covered by the top cover I don't mind it. Now here is the "ohhh snap!!!" moment though, this little sticker was resting on the bottom of the chassis right where the transformer sits. Holy crap, I own something which has been cryo treated by Jena Labs!!! I need to shower in a super hot geyser now to try and get rid of the shame...

Since I've compared my DIY BH to the real T2 I can safely say the T2 didn't better it in any way. The new PSU will be a large improvement but you can also strap that to the BH so in comparisons it shouldn't be a factor. Now once this project is done we need to pickup where we left off with the new SS designs...

Perhaps I could "borrow" the ship they used to sail to the US back in 2000? I don't think it is being used at all these days...

First one but probably not the last.

Happy Birthday Woody!

I finally booked my flight today. The evening of the 2nd of June I'll fly to Boston and stay there for the night, then a morning flight to Chicago so I should be there before noon. On the 7th it's back the same way again except I can take the night flight back home.

Have a great day Colin.

Happy Birthday HC!!!!