spritzer

I just watched it again and I love their bewilderment about the audiophile power cords and filters. I must say though that, while clearly nuts along with 1000 hour burn-in for CDP's, there is a lot of junk on the mains today. Have any of you looked inside the chargers/power bricks inside the various appliances or just ripped apart one of those "green" light bulbs? Truly nasty stuff there...

Ahh the ET1000, certainly one of my favorites. As for the Jade, one has to hold it to truly appreciate just how badly made they are. The wood is thin which would be fine if it was something like the wood used on the Orpheus (very dense stuff,milled to perfection and much thicker then on the Jade) but making the forks out of wood is utter madness. Now I normally don't care what something costs (as can be seen by my stubbornness to praise the Mk1 even when facing much more expensive transducers ) but value is always a factor for me. The Jade would make sense in a way if it cost 300$ but at 1800$ (hmm back to 1500$ now) it is just the same crap as Ray pricing the A-10 up there with the BHSE and WES so that is appears to be of the same quality.

I just measured the stock Stax headphone plug and they are 20mm across so the cable can't be much bigger then that. I'm in a similar situation since I'm dealing with a 10mm front panel...

I've never bought replacement wool but there isn't supposed to be any paper attached to it.

Those EAR amps are built to order and very rare. There are also some other direct drive amp from Germany but I forget what it was called. Also some from Holland too... The Quads like good, clean power. Class A monsters will work well give how immune they are to the load. It's not a good idea though to use an old ESL57 with a 25w+ amp if they aren't fitted with the clamp boards (which work in a similar fashion to the zener's Stax used on the transformer boxes). Old school Krell did sound very nice on some ESL63's and even a rebuilt 303 did a good job with ESL57's.

Nope, EAR made (makes?) a direct drive amp which is attached to the back of the speakers.

You do know that the ESL57's can be made active...

A large pile of aluminum cut to my specs. I'm going to give it a shot making an KGSS in my own chassis with 10mm thick front and side panels, 6mm back and 5mm top and bottom. Should weigh a ton...

Given the pics I have of the P1 it looks like there are multiple primaries and a simple ohm meter would be enough to figure out which is which. The P1u does appear to be limited to what ever region it is sold in though...

Some gainclone parts. Time to build a tiny integrated amp...

Good to know even if the dac will only be used for testing new amps. I had read somewhere that the opamps were some really cheap units but OPA77's is good news. I'll probably install some sockets though and try some 2604's since I have them at hand. All caps will be changed to Nichicon FG's. Now the only problem is getting the damn thing out of customs...

Happy Birthday and the Super Bowl is indeed tonight.

I'm thinking powder coated silver with black heatsinks and a silver top panel. That gun metal finish Stax used on the original would be very cool too...

It's a bit amazing just how tenacious the SP curse is, even my 100% rebuilt amp hasn't escaped it completely. Just about the only SP item I reused was some of the old wiring for the filaments. The only reason is that it is rather large and being solid core, can be twisted tightly and once fixed in place, stays there. The problem is the insulation though, it melts and splits even at low heat. So one of the times I fired up the amp this week I cued up the first song and half way through it got quieter and quieter until distortion crept in. Hmmm, I looked at the amp, all leds lit and so were the 7n7's but the EL34's were dark. All voltages tested just fine on the PSU so it had to be the fubar filament wires yet I found nothing wrong with them or my soldering. I moved the wires around a bit and the problem hasn't resurfaced in the roughly 40 hours the amp has been in use since then but the wire is clearly cursed...

I perhaps there was some good reason that I just wasn't seeing...

Looking good but why are the sockets upside down?

Solid core has the advantages of being a single strand so easy to spiral onto the pins and make a very secure connection. Ohh and you are wusses for not doing this all with the socket mounted in the chassis with no real access to it...

Sure does plus PRP's and Nichi ES's...

Holy crap, I haven't seen that much since I was a kid. You should try driving up here. This time of year the sun is always at eye level...

Given the amount of bad tubes he's shipped out over the years I really can't see him testing them. A boneheaded move for him but that's Mikhail for ya, one stupid idea after another.

I'd recommend heatshrink but it was hard for me to use since I had two wires on each pin, the wire from the tubes and then a loop out to the Fischer socket. Solid core wires would also be a good choice here...

Great connectors but make extra sure you don't short out the wires with a stray strand. The R- and bias pins are pretty close together...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2595[/ATTACH] Ohh hell yeah,this could pass for a Viking smiley. Can we add this one. pretty please...?

I use one very similar to this and it works well with wires from 28 and down to 12 which is the largest I've tried. I'm so happy with it that I'm going to buy another one tomorrow...

Couldn't have said it better....