spritzer

Caps have decreased a lot in size over the last 20 years or so. I have some 100uf/450V caps which are just tiny. Those caps should work but they are designed for use in a chassis with low height clearance so they are wider then a normal cap would be. If they fit then they fit but do measure the pitch of the terminals on the Stax board (you can just remove the bottom panel to see them) but take care with the high voltage on them. Snap in would be correct.

Indeed.

The pots should be marked on the board, offset and balance. TO adjust the offset put probes on the + and - outputs and adjust for 0VDC. Of the offset put on probe to + and one to ground and adjust for 0VDC.

This will be be very cool. Al has something like this already...

That means moar bass then?

Fuck, I want a Drunk Monk now...

Hi Pete.

You could parallel them for the main PSU caps but then you'd need another box just to house the caps. All the modern Stax amps are DC coupled so no caps in the signal path.

Hehe, I'd say it was the other way around.

I would use any good caps that fit, no audiophile nonsense for me. The stock caps are 15+ years old and way past their prime and since the PSU is unregulated it will have a large impact on the sound.

No resistors, just direct connections to the connectors on either side of the transformers.

You gotta try a SR-007...

The best sub 1k$ Stax amp you can get is the 717 so that's what I'd shoot for. You can also do a once over on the SRM-1 Mk2 (replace caps with fresh ones and adjust the offset) which should give you a nice performance boost.

Not stiff enough...

Damn memory foam isn't that comfortable for me. The floor would have been better. That's why we drink so much. The only way to truly rest is to pass out...

Well a newer tube amp for the SR-003 could be the DIYT2 but unless you have 18K sitting around that isn't really an option. The Blue Hawaii is also great... Any particular reason why you'd want a tube amp?

I always push headphones a bit hard when testing them and it does bring out some extra thickness in the bass. It wasn't a huge change (not like the SR-Omega for instance which really doesn't like high SPL) but noticeable.

Certainly better drawn then anything I've ever posted. I second a 5M resistor and a voltage divider to shave off a bit of the bias voltage.

It really is but it dawned on us that besides KG and me there wouldn't be a whole lot of interest in this beast. I'm also a bit on the fence since I already have a SRX...

The new ones have solid PVC film for dust covers on both sides (which shouldn't let anything past if they aren't damaged) but the older sets (pre 1993) have PVC on one side and woven nylon mesh on the other.

I'm not responsible for that one...

Load isn't an issue here and the amp will run just fine without one. No need to turn down the volume when switching headphones but some are less/more sensitive then others so beware of that. The bias is 580V and no need to alter anything here. It will drive any of the high bias headphones just fine like that. The modern Stax headphones do not need the dustcover but something like the Sennheiser HE60 needs one. If you have any specific questions then just PM me ohh and welcome to the mafia.

If we can make cases cheaply then the SRX based amp also comes into play. It is the same board size but with CCS on the output and the same PSU.