spritzer

Sherlock and The Glades

Even the good units I've had here were far from perfect. I shudder to think how Larry butchered that particular set as the all important o-ring is at the back of the drivers...

I second that, these amps are as close to wire's with gain as you can come so either the listener likes more color or the source isn't up to snuff. The SR-007 and HE60 both like power, lots of it so GES, WES, Exstata (Cavalli's version but the KG one would work) and A-10 certainly aren't up to the job. The ESX would be an obvious solution, can be built quite cheaply and sounds very nice indeed. KGSSHV is one and so is something like the modifed Exstata. You could also build one of Frank Cooters designs for something totally different...

DIY or a commercial unit?

Well you could check the AC off the transformer and then do the math but yeah, the most simple way is just to replace them. Btw. Which of the SRA's is this? I might have the schematic if you need it. There was also a restoration thread here on the SRA-12S a while back...

One way to check the caps is to measure the HT rails. If they are on spec then the caps work properly.

There is 1 KGST in the wild and I have it. No boards as I'm using a modified board from another amp design and a Blue Hawaii PSU. As for modding the stock Exstata board, it might be a bit hard...

Stax 4070

Yup, that's exactly what I used. Yup, but I'll only do the SS version. For the tube version it would just make more sense to build the KGST...

Parts for any of the pre-Lambda models are very thin on the ground and Stax shows no stock. Your best bet would be with any of the larger Stax distributors which have been in buisness since the 80's (Germany being very big on the SR-5's back in the day) or watching ebay. As for running the bias a bit hot, the driver can in theory easily handle 500V bias but Stax have always been rather conservative with bias voltage in context of the D/S gap. I just replace everything but then again I'm not normal. That said, the caps in my old SRM-T2 measured like new but replacing them with fresh units cured the offset issues I was having and raised the voltage rails up to spec again. If I remember correctly the old SRA units were all AC-coupled so you might want to look into new output caps as well. My board haven't arrived yet to no testing as of yet but people were experiencing odd things like the volume of the system drifting as if the bias supply wasn't working correctly. There were also some issues with the first supplies (as in they never worked) but I converted mine to the voltage doubler with a voltage divider at the end setup from the start so I never had any issues. As for the exstata, I've been cleaning up the layout of the new boards to try and make them smaller for the last couple of days and I've gotten them down to 195x122mm which isn't bad for something which has the same number of heatsinks as the KGSS two channel board. A simple PSU coming up too and then I'll order some boards.

Yeah, ohm's law against some some fucknuts on HF who think moar expensive = moar better, moar bling = moar soundz!!!

Woot Al, team milled chassis FTW!!! I spent most of the day working on some stuff plus trying to convert FLAC's to ALAC's to cram on the iphone. Worked like a charm just in time for the drive to the summerhouse for a dinner with the family which I dread every year... Way too much drink with some people who shouldn't touch the stuff.

Yay for Todd!!!!!

That sucks Steve...

Yup, same design as the rest of the post 1994 Lambdas.

I do most of my countersinking with a hand held drill and just one bit for the standard 3-4mm screws I use.

It's a bit fiddly but I've never had any trouble with it. It's just a small tube with a cut in it so that it can compress held in place with friction. \

The forks are easy to replace so it shouldn't be a problem to get a new one from Stax.

10W shouldn't have any trouble fitting onto the board. There are also 180K/5W resistors on ebay but they aren't cheap...

Happy Birthday!!!

We have plenty of those.

The SR-007Mk2.5 that is? Without opening it up I can't be sure but the newer models have sealed ports and the earpads aren't quite as protruding as on the very first units.

As with so many crazy people, they are Icelandic...

I had 3 Mk2's and 3 A's, all of which were identical and had the same issues. All of them "fixed" and still with the original buyers. ...or reading my mind. Either way works for me... I usually try to scrape off as much glue as is possible with a razor blade and then try to lift off the rest with tape. All the chemical solutions I've tried still don't work better then a length of tape and there is zero chance of damaging the drivers.

Most of the non-US manufacturers wire the XLR's like that according to some standard which I'm forgetting at the moment.