spritzer

Happy birthday buddy! Somebody bring the man a beer!!!

100uf/50V: 667-EEU-FC1H101 These should fit as I even manged to cram Elna SilmicII's in there...

Yup

I'd say RSA follows the US auto makers business model, unreliable, badly designed, unsafe for the end user, iffy warranty and overpriced.

Pfft....

The 507 is far better then a stock 404 and the brightness is something all Lambdas have to some extent. Whether the 407 might be the best buy of the bunch is something we'll have to see about. If it is just the 507 with less fancy building blocks then it is going to be a winner.

One thing that came to mind, are the amps set to 220V or 240V? They are old enough to be 220V if they have never been adjusted.

One of us!! One of us!!!

Go Andy, go!!!

I've spent way too much time hovering over opened SRM-1 Mk2's (adjusting the offset/balance) and I've never heard buzzing. In other news, my Exstata with group buy amp boards and a KGSS PSU at +/-350v is finally up and running.

I've never had that issue. Sounds like transformer buzzing so either it wasn't wound correctly or something on the AC like is making it buzz. Have you tried the amp on another electrical system to see if it buzzes?

It's strange that I didn't care much for it then. Could be because I'm technically born on the American continent...

I can't see any way of transplanting the new drivers. There is no way to move the baffle over to the Sigma either so picking up a used SR-303 is still the best choice.

If you are really cheap then you could build a KGSSHV for 500$ but you'd have to be pretty cheap. The SRM-1 Mk2 is very nice and you can get more voltage swing by running it balanced.

You get a lot more extension with the BHSE... The Sigma/404 should be even more linear, at least that is my take on the sound but amp choice is always a huge factor with Sigmas.

The damping did change a bit over the years though mostly it was less comprehensive to make them cheaper to make. Also the glue used to secure the wool looses its grip over the years so you need to replace it as this will alter the sound quite a bit.

In

I've been digging through my stash of gear sorting what I'm going to sell and I came across this SR-X Mk3 I had totally forgot about. The plan was to keep it around for potential Pro mods but since this one had been fitted with a ribbon cable it made sense to keep it as a normal bias unit (the cable is useless for a Lambda). Despite some mild channel imbalance (which will probably go away with some use) I decided to tare it down and finally try out some mods to the SR-X chassis. Those that have worked on these sets might have noticed that Stax intentionally broke the baffle seal by raising the plate with the earpads a millimeter or so above the baffle. While the air is restricted there isn't a proper SR-007 seal so it would be well worth the time to try it out. I've lost count of how many SR-X's I've worked on over the years but I've always done it by the book. Fixed the drivers with tape and never tampered with the damping/seal. Now it was time to do something different so I attached the drivers with polyurethane glue (let it cure for 3 days) and then placed a ring of blutac between the baffle and the metal shell and assembled it all under tension. Round it all off with new earpads. The end result is pretty nice, nice taught bass that goes deeper than before and they don't sound so bloody tinny. The SR-X's were always about the midrange and it is just more real now. Voices have real presence and rock solid imaging. Real bass extension is never going to happen with non Pro models but every little bit helps and it's fun to do stuff like this. It's also been fun to compare them to the semi vintage RS-1's I have here.

Legal action would be my guess.

The 4070 is easy to adjust for better fit, just bend the metal arcs like we do with the SR-007. Not something I'd do with a loaner set but it can be done. With these you absolutely have to have proper fit given its bass reflex nature, more so then any other electrostatic.

The volcano is underneath the largest glacier in Europe so yeah, it could very well happen again. Now if we would have something half as terrible as Laki happen underneath one of the glaciers then that would shut down all air travel for months if not years. Hell Iceland would probably have to be evacuated... Thanks for that but I've placed an order at Fastener-Express so we'll see how that goes. I naturally forgot the 5/16 T-nuts though...

Well Gr

Bought the bloody imperial screws for the T2 from McMaster-Carr or so I thought until they canceled my order due to the "difficulty of export shipments". This isn't Italy we are talking about here even though the last package from Justin did end up in Ireland for some peculiar reason...

If Stax leave the crazy region of something like the T2 behind and expand on what they have been doing with the SS amps as of late they could come of with something that stands up to the Blue Hawaii and at a similar price. Now the 2SA1968 is dead so they would have to use something like the 10M90 which coupled with some nice tubes and the SRM-T1/006t/007t driver stage wouldn't be a terrible idea. Now no tube in current production is as excellent for this role as the 6S4A but the first T2 prototype was allegedly something along these lines.

One interesting bit, the set they had at the meet uses the new silver plated cable but the one in the video has the old, all copper cable... Yup, he's the son of the founder and he also designed the solid state power amps back in the day for the electrostatic speakers. Those could easily weld the speaker cables together if you are so inclined...