spritzer

The RK50 is only available in 10K as a stereo unit, the quad's are always 50K AFAIK.

NB just gives you lower potential, so a weaker electrostatic field, hence less control over all. The top end is the hardest to reproduce with electrostatics so it will have a large impact.

Those things are terrible, do not use them for a bias supply. They are noisy beyond belief.

I would be very skeptical of any FR graphs for the 007's, they are next to impossible to measure correctly. Ohh and that conclusion is completely false... I did order up a new 007A which should be here soon. Let's see if Stax changed anything.

You would have to make a bias supply from scratch as there is nothing you can simply tap into here.

Yup, that's the SRX circuit.

I hadn't heard anything about a new version but I might pick one up and try it out. Always an excuse...

If there is enough copper there to solder a wire to, then it can be fixed but I've come across some units which were beyond hope.

This is the 240V setting. If you wouldn't move the white wire the transformer would be set to 220V which isn't a great idea these days. That picture of the wires doesn't tell us anything as the windings entering the transformer are not visible. Just pull off the PCB or use a volt meter to measure between blue and brown and then green and purple. Should be a few ohms but if you have nothing... then the windings have been cut.

Remove both black jumpers, move the left hand white wire to the empty spot above the blue wire (so from brown to blue) and finally, put in a new jumper between gray and purple. Also, make sure the gray and blue wires actually go inside the transformer and aren't cut off. Either measure continuity between the next wires or remove the blue PCB on top of the transformer for a visual inspection.

The caps are in series. You can even use 350V caps in most cases...

It's been too long since I've had one here to be but sure but here is the schematic:

The 009BK was always the TOTL unit so they might just be moving to that direction. For me they were always the best 009's by a mile too

It is pretty much impossible to find the split volume controls but the quad RK27 pots are out there and they are a drop in replacement. You will need a new knob for it though.

The XLR mod doesn't change anything really, if there is a sonic improvement it really depends on the source if the different outputs are handled differently. The XLR just doubles the input voltage (though that is not set in stone either). To do the mod, just remove the resistor which grounds the gate of one half of the input fet and copy what's on the other gate.

If you have some transformers floating around, it would be simple enough to make a cheap linear supply to try out. Add some beefy caps in a CRC or CLC setup...

Shorting due to the flux becoming conductive over the years?

The mains traces are pretty close together and close to the output on the bottom so you might run into issues with that. I would at minimum move them to the other side of the board and add slots to further isolate them.

Why Stax does anything... is always up for debate but now they have gone into full bastard mode with 100V only transformers being sold in Japan. Not impossible to swap out the transformers but an utter pain.

Yup, pull it out and set it to 117V and it will work perfectly. Also, top tip... remove that 100V sticker and see what is underneath...

I've never seen a T1 or T1S without the voltage selector. Have you removed the bottom panel and looked?

I have my own custom made teflon ones in stock but not listed on my site.

Yup, adding capacitance is always a bad idea.

Yeah, the used prices are pretty nuts.

I also like the plastic stick on bumpers on the electrolytic caps so they don't short to the bottom panel...