spritzer

Yup. I had to add the 120V wires to the transformer and clear out some excess solder but it is pretty easy, at least on the unit I had

I only see two options really, mini XLR and some sort of LEMO. Neither are fun to work with as they require a steady hand and thin wire which most of these people will not understand...

The prototypes were Pro bias. There is really no reason for Stax to go any higher, at least not yet.

Indeed, it is a matter of a larger core. The only transformers I've had a problem with here are the truly over sized Victoria Magnetics but they must have been something very wrong. That's not bad at all. Mine is starting to become weak after 5.5 years but only yesterday I had to jump start by dad's Range which is only 3 years old. The acid in the battery measures just fine though which is quite odd...

I think all SumR transformers can handle 50/60Hz as will most others. In a truly global market and step up/down transformers it is the only thing that makes sense. Future it is. Dalbani should have 1486's and most of the others.

This is an old restoration trick used on amps with exposed capacitors such as the Leak gear. Cut off the bottom panel and fit new caps inside the can. That said, using the same size and voltage would be a good place to start...

Mouser can order the output transistors for you but they won't sell the the 10m90 any longer outside the US. Dalbani might carry all of them (except the LSK389), I haven't checked but they are in the UK.

You might be able to bend the 2SK pins to fit but the LSK389 is reasonably easy to find.

The transformer will have any primaries that you like, dual 117V, single 117/230 or two 117V with 100V taps. SumR can make any of that for you. Voltage handling is mostly the key here. It's true that not many of the resistors will see the full voltage but we are doing this like it were a production unit, with high tolerances and as little chance of failure as is possible.

Should be, unless there are problems with it.

Using the ingredients at hand...?

It's not the same since you are only seeing half the picture. The output transistors will be heatsinked and the resistors attached to the sink via thermal epoxy. That said, I also take care to solder them properly and dealing with a +/-16V Dynalo is very different compared to the +/-500V T2.

Yeah and worrying about steel end caps is just nuts. I'm currently on my own resistor buying binge and cramming 2w carbon film resistors everywhere but that's because they are dirt cheap, about the same as RN60 Vishay's and can handle 500V.

That A-N piece of kit is far from the last word in quality assembly. If you want to twist two components like that then solder them properly together... I use 2W resistors quite often instead of the usual RN60 units and I just form the leads to make them fit. These are Kiwame/Koa SPR's so they are quite small but it can be done. I also think I used some 2W Riken's on my T2 and I had no problem fitting them...

I'm sure we can turn vodka and cranberry juice into some nice drink. Perhaps use slightly less than 50% of vodka would be a good first step...

Are you making red vodka?

I guess I could have been of some use with getting the 'vette unstuck... Have fun guys and enjoy the snow. Here we just have tar and salt on the roads.

Not unless they have a 15mm pitch...

There are jacks with separate switches available but after talking to Justin I'm leaning towards just having an external switch plus a second one for low/high gain on the headphone output. This would be really simple as the switches just control power to the relays so no external circuitry is needed. Call me lazy but I do like simplicity sometimes...

Yup, it's all in the BOM but the 0.1uf/1000V has dual footprints to accommodate me and my cap collection.

The F5 isn't that much harder to build then for instance a gainclone. I've already started on a second one which will probably be a fully integrated unit. Already started a Dynalo woth switchable gain. It will probably relay based switching so when a headphone is plugged in the amp it switches off the preout and raises the gain. Remove the plug and it drops back to 1-2x. It will also have remote power for the F5 (I'll just loop it's power line through the preamp), a standby function and perhaps a remote control (via a motorized TKD2511). It will also feature only carbon film resistors in which made me come up with this madness: The 51R resistors were far cheaper than the 24R so why not just double up. All matched naturally... The speakers are Spendor S3/5SE.

I'm sure AKG will service a current production model.

It is a Toshiba part so Mouser should be able to source it for you.

Stax are being a pain when it comes to spare parts... Have you tried the UK distributor? They are often very helpful.

I think the new links were just for the SRM-252S and not the SR-003. Nothing solid out of Japan about a new model, other then that a new model should arrive. Avoiding AC is always a good move. Fucktards isn't a strong enough word for them...