spritzer

Are you making red vodka?

I guess I could have been of some use with getting the 'vette unstuck... Have fun guys and enjoy the snow. Here we just have tar and salt on the roads.

Not unless they have a 15mm pitch...

There are jacks with separate switches available but after talking to Justin I'm leaning towards just having an external switch plus a second one for low/high gain on the headphone output. This would be really simple as the switches just control power to the relays so no external circuitry is needed. Call me lazy but I do like simplicity sometimes...

Yup, it's all in the BOM but the 0.1uf/1000V has dual footprints to accommodate me and my cap collection.

The F5 isn't that much harder to build then for instance a gainclone. I've already started on a second one which will probably be a fully integrated unit. Already started a Dynalo woth switchable gain. It will probably relay based switching so when a headphone is plugged in the amp it switches off the preout and raises the gain. Remove the plug and it drops back to 1-2x. It will also have remote power for the F5 (I'll just loop it's power line through the preamp), a standby function and perhaps a remote control (via a motorized TKD2511). It will also feature only carbon film resistors in which made me come up with this madness: The 51R resistors were far cheaper than the 24R so why not just double up. All matched naturally... The speakers are Spendor S3/5SE.

I'm sure AKG will service a current production model.

It is a Toshiba part so Mouser should be able to source it for you.

Stax are being a pain when it comes to spare parts... Have you tried the UK distributor? They are often very helpful.

I think the new links were just for the SRM-252S and not the SR-003. Nothing solid out of Japan about a new model, other then that a new model should arrive. Avoiding AC is always a good move. Fucktards isn't a strong enough word for them...

Have you looked up the 2sc5563? I'm too lazy to look up the datasheets...

Yeah, exposed center pins is a very dumb move. Not as stupid as having exposed pins on the tube amp PSU but it is up there. A teflon jack like this from China would cost next to nothing and probably be cheaper than the WPI's... As for the transformers, I sent the Lundahl boxes off for powdercoating today. I resisted the urge to do them bright red or something like that... The 1.5um diaphragm was introduced in 1997 so that's nothing new. I think this is just the old model or did you contact them?

Why the hell would they put the bias board in epoxy? This isn't 20+kV, air will easily contain any sparcs. Considering how fubar most bias supplies are I am a little worried... The SR-001 Mk1 had the 2.5um diaphragm, the Mk2 has 1.5um. I haven't tried the new one and most likely won't for a while.

The SR-Lambda is indeed the holy grail which reminds me, I think I have a set or two in Japan... Doesn't the WEE use the crappy SFI sockets? Then it wouldn't be a problem to just add a voltage divider to the bias supply and turn one of the outputs into a normal bias one. You just need two resistors for the VD and a new ballast resistor for that output.

Yeah, I'm pretty slow with stuff like this...

Happy Birthday Gene!!!!

Replace the caps in the SRM-1 Mk2 and reset the bias and it will be fine. Convert it to balanced to double the voltage swing...

Here is what the finished article looks like with all the custom cables I made for it: I also spent some time with it driving my Tannoy R2's. No excessive volume issues like with so many vintage amps but it did turn the very mild mannered Tannoys into slow and bloated bass monsters. This is with all the EQ dials in the center but then I remebered reading the Goodmans Maxiamp article in the latest HFN. There they confirmed with measurments that the center position for the bass control was indeed some +3db from neutral. So given that the EQ design could be common and similar the vintage of these amps I tried to dial it a bit back and indeed that worked like a charm. My first hours with the amp were without the front dials in place so I had no idea where the controls were, I just adjusted by ear. The bass isn't still quite linear but that can be said about the rest of the spectrum as well. The top end is rolled off and the midrange a bit larger than life but it makes for a nice whole. The total cost of the restoration was about 100-130$ and it isn't bad considering I bought most of the parts locally and the rest was my usual TOTL crap that costs way too much. I will venture a guess that the amp sounds better than new...

I stumbled across a stash of 2SJ109's at a local store and I bought some more carbon film resistors. I'm starting to think I might have a problem...

Damn, that reminds me to get cracking on the gigantic version for Kevin and me. Bloody hell, too many projects, not enough time.

Happy Birthday!!

The only ones that spring to mind are the isolated versions of the regulators. I used them but only because they were the only version available. You could also swap out the 2SC3675 for one of the higher rated units but then it wouldn't really be authentic...

A speaker amp has been discussed...

There are always Sound Labs. Douglas is my hero...

Fucking A!!! *Goes off to check flights to NY*