spritzer

You might be able to bend the 2SK pins to fit but the LSK389 is reasonably easy to find.

The transformer will have any primaries that you like, dual 117V, single 117/230 or two 117V with 100V taps. SumR can make any of that for you. Voltage handling is mostly the key here. It's true that not many of the resistors will see the full voltage but we are doing this like it were a production unit, with high tolerances and as little chance of failure as is possible.

Should be, unless there are problems with it.

Using the ingredients at hand...?

It's not the same since you are only seeing half the picture. The output transistors will be heatsinked and the resistors attached to the sink via thermal epoxy. That said, I also take care to solder them properly and dealing with a +/-16V Dynalo is very different compared to the +/-500V T2.

Yeah and worrying about steel end caps is just nuts. I'm currently on my own resistor buying binge and cramming 2w carbon film resistors everywhere but that's because they are dirt cheap, about the same as RN60 Vishay's and can handle 500V.

That A-N piece of kit is far from the last word in quality assembly. If you want to twist two components like that then solder them properly together... I use 2W resistors quite often instead of the usual RN60 units and I just form the leads to make them fit. These are Kiwame/Koa SPR's so they are quite small but it can be done. I also think I used some 2W Riken's on my T2 and I had no problem fitting them...

I'm sure we can turn vodka and cranberry juice into some nice drink. Perhaps use slightly less than 50% of vodka would be a good first step...

Are you making red vodka?

I guess I could have been of some use with getting the 'vette unstuck... Have fun guys and enjoy the snow. Here we just have tar and salt on the roads.

Not unless they have a 15mm pitch...

There are jacks with separate switches available but after talking to Justin I'm leaning towards just having an external switch plus a second one for low/high gain on the headphone output. This would be really simple as the switches just control power to the relays so no external circuitry is needed. Call me lazy but I do like simplicity sometimes...

Yup, it's all in the BOM but the 0.1uf/1000V has dual footprints to accommodate me and my cap collection.

The F5 isn't that much harder to build then for instance a gainclone. I've already started on a second one which will probably be a fully integrated unit. Already started a Dynalo woth switchable gain. It will probably relay based switching so when a headphone is plugged in the amp it switches off the preout and raises the gain. Remove the plug and it drops back to 1-2x. It will also have remote power for the F5 (I'll just loop it's power line through the preamp), a standby function and perhaps a remote control (via a motorized TKD2511). It will also feature only carbon film resistors in which made me come up with this madness: The 51R resistors were far cheaper than the 24R so why not just double up. All matched naturally... The speakers are Spendor S3/5SE.

I'm sure AKG will service a current production model.

It is a Toshiba part so Mouser should be able to source it for you.

Stax are being a pain when it comes to spare parts... Have you tried the UK distributor? They are often very helpful.

I think the new links were just for the SRM-252S and not the SR-003. Nothing solid out of Japan about a new model, other then that a new model should arrive. Avoiding AC is always a good move. Fucktards isn't a strong enough word for them...

Have you looked up the 2sc5563? I'm too lazy to look up the datasheets...

Yeah, exposed center pins is a very dumb move. Not as stupid as having exposed pins on the tube amp PSU but it is up there. A teflon jack like this from China would cost next to nothing and probably be cheaper than the WPI's... As for the transformers, I sent the Lundahl boxes off for powdercoating today. I resisted the urge to do them bright red or something like that... The 1.5um diaphragm was introduced in 1997 so that's nothing new. I think this is just the old model or did you contact them?

Why the hell would they put the bias board in epoxy? This isn't 20+kV, air will easily contain any sparcs. Considering how fubar most bias supplies are I am a little worried... The SR-001 Mk1 had the 2.5um diaphragm, the Mk2 has 1.5um. I haven't tried the new one and most likely won't for a while.

The SR-Lambda is indeed the holy grail which reminds me, I think I have a set or two in Japan... Doesn't the WEE use the crappy SFI sockets? Then it wouldn't be a problem to just add a voltage divider to the bias supply and turn one of the outputs into a normal bias one. You just need two resistors for the VD and a new ballast resistor for that output.

Yeah, I'm pretty slow with stuff like this...

Happy Birthday Gene!!!!

Replace the caps in the SRM-1 Mk2 and reset the bias and it will be fine. Convert it to balanced to double the voltage swing...