spritzer

The only issues I've had were with uneven epoxy coatings. It's not very comforting to see the resistive element on something meant for high voltage use...

SR-007A...

With up to 15% variation in the input voltage? The reason why the EU electricity standard is wide is because of the UK system.

Have a great day Jeff!!

Yeah, read that thread...

Don't get me started on his Kimik mods though. How the hell he's going to offer precise offset and balance settings for the tubes with an unregulated PSU is beyond me...

The new pads will sound different since the distance from the ears to the drivers is a large factor. It's isn't that big of a change though... Personally I wouldn't change the pads unless they are deteriorating or simply falling off.

Yup, any Lambda pads will fit. I for one am not that great a fan of the new leather pads since they are so shallow and uncomfortable for me.

Happy Birthday!!

All new earpads come with the cloth insert, any earpads with the foam are old stock. It's also not easy to compare this as the new earpads have a different shape to the older ones (more like the original prototype Lambdas). I for one have compared them and I can't hear any difference at all, ditto on the Omegas which use the same cloth inside the pads.

The fail is quite strong in that one... Hifi News have been going on about that the data on the files may be identical but how the software decodes it may alter the sound. They also did some measurements but never posted the hard data that I'm aware of.

Yup, they are WW non-inductive.

I can donate some Kimber cables for testing if somebody is up for it. I'm going to rip a KS3033 apart tonight to make some truly insane interconnects...

Like I just told Kevin, sometimes I really glad that a good part of the northern Atlantic sits between us. I'd live in constant fear of crazy shit like this showing up...

Try to remove the bottom panel.... Then you can pull out the plug and turn it to what even voltage you want.

It's strange you got such a high voltage across R12. I don't remember something like that on either of the two channels in mine. Have you measured the pots? They could be damaged and it would be well worth the time to do a diode test on the mosfets, just to see of they have shorted. One more thing, I don't recommend prolonged use of the F5 with a low ratio Stax transformer at loud levels. It got, very, very toasty...

It's Yahoo! Japan aka Japanese Ebay...

Yup, all of the Lambdas until this latest series had the drivers glues to the baffle.

When I get my hands on another Mk2/A I plan to see if there is a middle ground where air can escape but not utterly fuck up the sound at the same time. No port on the SR-5N in this sense but the drivers aren't properly secured to the baffle and the earpads do not seal completely. My SR-1 farts like crazy when fitted with SR-007 Mk1 earpads but the drivers are also glued to the baffle.

Yup, changing the angle of the arc on the headphones and finding the correct earpad angle also helps but the port is the biggest offender here.

The US prices are meaningless when it comes to Stax. The only real reference point is the Japanese price which remains stable for years on end. The SR-Omega debuted at 180k Yen back in 1993 and the SR-007 cost the same. The A increased slightly in prices to 190K.

I've never had any issues with removing soldered heat sinks but it is a good idea to just solder one of the pins until you are sure the bloody thing works. Also screws facing in opposite directions is sound advice.

Fear the Stax Mafia...

I just checked the Box and the 1080p version they have is the transport stream so it is basically the raw data. Other then that there is only the normal 1080i version...

I would have to say the amp is pretty much flat, as much as it can be into the SR-007 load. You won't ever get the bass performance of the Blue Hawaii but it is a far cry from clearly colored amps like the Rudistor Egmont and the Exstata. As with any planar transducer, baffle leak will alter response quite a bit. The port is just there to eliminate the noises the drivers make because they are virtually airtight. Ditto for the increased earpad height as some users had ears that protruded too much. The spring isn't really a problem. You just set it in place (there are flanges inside the earpads where the spring sits) and you plug it into the rubber grommet in the center of the protective plate. Then you just grab the edge of the pads and feed it into the slot it sits in, while keeping one end firmly in place. Once you are done you rotate the pads a few times to make sure they sit properly. That Moritite might work but I haven't tried it. I like Blutac for this as it leaves no residue and you can find it anywhere.