spritzer

It's there without any input present so it doesn't appear to be the case.

Have you checked the DC offset and balance? Hum could be caused by a capacitor approaching end of its life.

I haven't but I do hope that they are alright.

First thing I'd check is the LED on the front panel. Are the leads touching the chassis? After that, check all ground wires and make sure they are secure.

Happy Birthday!!!

Bloody "new content".... Anyway, I'd go with a custom made transformer since those 4A filament windings might cause you a lot of trouble as the load isn't that high. There are also some R-cores out there but they aren't always available. Everybody needs a few 6S4A's around...

The Wavelink is intriguing but only one output is a no go for me. It sucks to be a gear whore sometimes... No, it mostly just sits there. Time is the issue here as I haven't had a day off in months so I don't want to mess with the system too much. I've been using the Rakk Dac I got from Nate a lot lately and I'm too bloody tired to swap all the cables. I'm going to buy a new Dac though but haven't decided which (Accuphase, ML 30.6 etc.)

Price isn't an issue for me. I've put all my regular CD's into storage so this is my main means of listening and with a BHSE and a T2DIY in the same system I can hardly skimp on the source. My computers all run Windows so that isn't an issue.

Yup, 50C10's are in current production in China (or at least recent production). Those amps do look pretty cool but 1150V is just insane. This is 211/845 territory...

Are you going to do it P2P or design a PCB?

The 727 often has the windings cut which can be a pain to fix. Then you need to remove the lacquer on the winding, add some solder to it and then fashion a jumper to the external pin on the trafo. Not all that hard to pull off. I've had two 323's here and both simply lacked the 117V wires from the transformer so once they were installed all you need to do is change the jumper settings. Those are soldered on the main PCB but are easy enough to change.

I found this in a google search. Much more choice then a couple of years ago. As for the V-link, HFN did review it and the measurements looked just fine. I do loath MF gear though, overpriced using the cheapest parts known to man.

I'm still using the Trends UD-10.1 but since it is limited to 16/44.1 I'd like to upgrade to something newer. Has anybody any experience with the newer models out there? Multiple outputs is a plus (I'm catching up to Dinny with the number of DAC's here) and I don't really care about the price or the size. I did a quick search and the M2Tech Evo looks good but what else is out there?

Power and volume have very little to do with one another. Sure if you drive the amp flat out then it will compress quite badly, same goes for the 006t since the 6CG7's are run past their limits. What you are descibing is just gain which can easily be increased or just convert the amp to a balanced input to double the input voltage. I'm all for more power but it is all about control over the diaphragm and load tolerance but not volume. Converting the amps can be difficult but some are very easy. Solder two wires from the transformers to the PCB and change the jumper settings. Minimal skill involved. As for the US warranty, that's a none issue. There is nobody to service the amps should they fail as Yama's doesn't answer the phone.

Voltage swing and the rail voltages don't go hand in hand like that but the SRM-323 doesn't just swing more voltage, it is also more tolerant of the load it "sees". The S is the export code while the Japanese models are named M. The old code was II and A which just confused everybody. I wouldn't personally pay extra for the same amp when the Japanese units can be changed to either 120 or 230V.

More power means the amp is less of a factor in the over all sound. That's the whole point of designing better amps IMO. Feed the transducer properly and you'll get the most from it. I'm also talking about the older versions of these amps, nobody knows what the S thing stands for or even if there are any real changes.

Happy Birthday Nate!!!

It is simply a far more advanced design and not held back by a less than ideal tube choice.

This is the (un)official Stax forum so feel free to share.

The best amp Stax currently sells is the 323 so I'd go for that one.

Same thing here, plenty of old threads popping up and many new ones are completely overlooked.

Just like Kevin said, these are just normal green boards. These are from Headamp so no pics of the underside. As for the Gerber's... yeah good luck with that...

Here are the pictures

The known issue with the original T2 was indeed the transformers and they run very, very hot. Kevin did look into that but I'm way too tired to remember what his findings were...

Happy Birthday Craig!!