spritzer

Ahh but the Euro hasn't been weaker for years...

The USB input finally started working. I thought it was possessed at one point but it's just super picky about the cables used.

I approve of this message!!! I'm just marveling at how good the LCD-2 is though that is mostly due to the MSB dac finally running at full tilt...

All the Mk2.5 sets have a serial number that starts with SZ3-xxxx, the older Mk2's start with SZ2. To these ears the Mk2.5 sounds more forward but also a bit strained in the midrange even though it is quite subtle. If you are interested in a set then I'm going to sell my Mk2.5 soon. Currently with the port plugged but it would be easy enough to remove the plug. I've spent the last couple of days refurbishing a very beat up set of SR-007 drivers with 3 of 4 dust covers missing and the drivers full of dust and debris. I'm guessing somebody tried to vaccum the drivers or some such stupidity. One just has to admire the build quality of these drivers even though this was Stax doing it on the cheap. They still crackle and pop even after a good cleaning so I'll have to take drastic measures to try and save them.

Gotta love the Rudistor BS. Chassis made 100% out of aluminum except the steel bars that hold it all together...

Perhaps he'll now make the electrostatic headphones named in my honor?

Perhaps I'll just leave the boards loose... adds a bit of excitement each time I power up the amp... Edit. Yeah, tounge firmly in cheek since +/-500V are no laughing matter. Looking at the PSU PCB and I think it might even be prudent to use nylon standoffs if you plan on using the mounting holes in the center of the board. Those resistors are just a bit too close for my tastes...

2.5" and I'm leaning towards double sided adhesive to fix the boards. Living on the edge here!!! I'll use 10mm standoffs... I took the picture when I was marking out all the holes.

Wood or plastic are both insulators so nothing wrong with using either as chassis material. I tend to use metal due to the shielding properties though. I never use ground loop breakers on any of my gear. Made some progress on one of my HV's. Here is proof that one will fit in a 2U 400mm chassis...

It's been a painful birth but then again I get easily distracted and go work on something else. Too many projects, too little time and I'm always adding some random crap to the list. This week has been mostly spent finishing a preamp based on a 25$ ebay kit and buying parts for a Hiraga Class A amp to drive the LCD-2's.

95%...

I'll step into the rack-oven in the morning and see if 280°C can change my mind...

Arguing is half the fun... My point really is that moar money isn't always better in this world so try before you buy. I also think the 009 would have been a whole lot better with slightly different voicing in the same way that the SR-007Mk1 is miles better than the Mk2. People also said I was nuts about that particular bit...

I'm not a bass freak either so I'm more concerned with it being reproduced faithfully than anything else. I'd recommend a good SR-007 Mk1 over the 009 as to these ears it is simply a better transducer. The 009 has its momenets but it also annoys me quite a bit... No too shabby. Pair matching is good too given how poor the matching was at Quad.

Happy Birthday!!

I guess I'm very lucky to have a place that powder coats even one amplifier lid for me and does it well enough for my crazy standards. As for removing the old paint, just have the case sandblasted.

Build the 100$ amp Kerry drew up, makes the objective look like the garbage it really is. Price doesn't include the heatsinks, transformer etc. but this is one performs way past it's humble pricetag. I'm also sure you can build a Dynalo for silly little money simply by being frugal and using a simple 317/337 or 317/317 PSU (depending on the transformer used).

Happy Birthday!!!

To me the 009 bass has certain limits where it just stops dead in its tracks. It's almost a cutoff point, not unlike the HE90 but far more subtle. The 007 doesn't have this and neither does the SR-Omega (or LCD-2r.1 for that matter). Messing with the source or amp to suit one transducer is a no-no in my book but then again I'm a purist.

No, that one uses ECC83's and only for the driver stage. They are run off a +300V supply so once you factor in the loss in the plate resistors the valves are well within their limits (they can indeed be run quite a bit harder than that). The output stage of the GES uses 6S4A's run off +600V.

I just checked my schematic and they did indeed use ECC82's. Not that it matters really since we are still dealing with a small signal tube with a max Va of 300V, driven way past its limits and asked to push what, 300pf? Pure madness... Also, that balanced input is really just single ended (notice the dual section 10K RK27 pot) and the input drivers are BC639. It's also fully AC-coupled.

I have my issues with the 009 bass as well...

Brighter than the HE-5? That was one truly dreadful headphone...

The parts are better quality but I prefer the fit of the later Mk1 parts. I'm a proud member of team melon head so the extra tension in the elastic bothers me a bit.

I got mine from FrozenCPU but you can also find them in China. 250VAC/5A so they should be ok but I haven't really used mine since fitting the switch. One of the K216's shorted out and I'm still waiting for the PEEK screws. I think new bushings are just what I need and stick with stainless.