spritzer

That's not what I've found to be honest and the number back this up since the midrange is the most benign load for any amp. Over blown bass, check. Distant and rolled off highs, check. Very compromised sound stage, check, but the midrange always shines through. Could just be me and the small issue of me falling hard for the 007 even off my old SRM-313...

Bárðabunga does have a nice ring to it in Icelandic but I guess it doesn't translate well... Askja or Laki would perhaps be better for the international market. Both truly terrible eruptions though...

You could try some thin glass wool or anything similar at the local hardware store. Thin foam would also work but it won't sound the same.

Same thing for me. Most of my HD800 time has been spent with one of the very early sets (demo pair at the local distributor) and to me the LCD-2 is a superior transducer over all. Those that have owned numerous sets, is there any change in the production? Sennheiser is known for tampering with things such as there are 3 very different versions of the HEV90 but they never said anything...

Gotta love the inrush current. I think I used 3.15AT fuses up here (230V) but that is probably overkill. Mikhail used 6.3A in the ES-1 but those transformers dim the lights.

It's actually mineral wool and not glass wool. No idea what type they used though as the stuff made up here is much, much coarser.

Ohh that's what they were. Sorry but they were all sent here but thrown into the nearest lava pit as they didn't have a 5 pin headphone plug...

I've been poking around in my old 3GS and I bet one of the connectors just popped loose. Gentle push and it should work just fine. Be extra careful with the antenna connectors since they break very easily (small round coax units)

Mine is well on its way but I'm easily distracted...

I don't get that either. The BH has enough power on tap to burn up the headphones if they were introduced to it's full fury and the KGSS is damn close to that. WES isn't even close and DC offset and balance issues make it even worse. I've said it time and time again, gain means nothing and less of it is usually better.

I would certainly measure each step on every gang of the Khozmo. Same thing with the Dact's and all other steppers.

I haven't spent much time with it to be honest as I'm waiting on a good set of L-Pro's before doing any real listening. My main reason for buying it was to unlock it's secrets though....

There is one sitting on my rack...

I guess they are just trying to make people forget about the HEV70...

With only one winding then the trick is to pick some compromise which means the tubes never see a load which they don't like. The tubes are also driven well below their limits which helps in this regard. Nothing beats multiple taps though... It's better than the older amps but looks like there is at least one cold solder joint on the tube sockets (top 4 pin with blue wire attached) and he's still using those awful rotary switches. Looks like somebody gave Alpha a call and ordered some 24mm pots...

Yup, that's the GB board. I agree that the M3 is a nice amp and very simple to build but it is very much lacking compared to the Dynalo with the LCD-2's. Large part of the problem are the parts used and the compromises needed to make it so simple to build. Still better than 99% of the commercial crap out there...

It will be fine. The 900V rating on the 1968's is conservative as most units surpass it by quite a margin.

Thanks for that Larry. The negatives are certainly not switched but I can't see if they are tied together. Different bias supply, in your unit it is a voltage doubler fed into a voltage divider.

Fixed bias is indeed a much better way to do this. For the extra negative supply I'd just make small, fully floating, regulated supply but pretty much anything works. Batteries are a fun way to do it especially with a large sign saying not to touch... One of my friends got a bit too close to the ES-1 when I was testing it's revised output stage but one mention of the batteries floating at -460V was enough for him to back off. While we are on the subject, I'm making slow but steady progress on my B-10 (improved A-10): Trying to keep this as small as is possible so 1U for the amp and same size 2U chassis for the PSU.

I think I still have those made in the USSR tubes somewhere...

The top opens up and what I'm after are the bias supply setup and the speaker input/switching. On the unit I'm currently trouble shooting the bias supply is handled by a off the shelf voltage tripler from a CRT tv which is utterly unsuitable for this role. There is also no ballast resistor for the bias supply which is a bad... very bad idea. Second issue is that all the black speaker posts are tied together and the switch only switches the red. Plug in a bridged amp (Class T, high power SS, circlotron) and it will go BOOM!!! No mention of this "feature" anywhere I can see...

Quite right.

Hey, if you used our lovely letters then you'd type less. For example, though would be þó. Edit. I really don't know what the Finns are adding to their water supply to end up with that...

To bad they can't spell the names correctly. I wonder how many realize the name is bif-röst and not bi-frost....

Would anybody with a Woo WEE mind opening it up and posting pics? I'm troubleshooting one unit and I have some major concerns about the design which I need to verify.