spritzer

If you'd like to reach some price break then just let me know...

Some of my staff felt sick when they saw the pic so you are not alone. I took the splinter out myself so nothing to tell. None of my needle nose pliers could get to it so I just put pressure on top of the nail and used a screwdriver to slowly nudge it out until I could get a good grip on it. Now the finger is very swollen but seems to be healing just fine.

They never do listen but it's still a good idea to add this feature. Only problem is that the amp needs to be dialed in again after doing the change. They could just add a servo though... I was offered a very derelict example of a LNS for parts or repair so that's where the drivers come from. I needed to do some work on them and one has some noise from time to time so they are perfect for some testing. The LNS is also my favorite Lambda so that made the choice easier. I do have a Lambda Sig here too so I might do the change at a later date. They will certainly be a lot less obvious inside the HE90 frame then the gold LNS drivers. As for the parts, well I asked nicely. I'm friends with the Sennheiser distributor here so he can order pretty much anything for me.

Wuss!!! I really wish Stax would just market a 737 already with this option switchable.

Running out of solder... that is next to impossible. For me it was a slow day with mostly running errands and trying to figure out why my friends brand new Dynaudio active speakers shock me through the RCA's when they are turned off. Then there was this nice piece of wood I managed to cram underneath my fingernail and dragged out by myself... Took about 30 minutes as none of my pliers could get a grip on it. Pure joy but I'm a viking so...

The 727/009 combo does work but I do think the mod would be worthwhile. You could always pickup a used 727 and do the mod on that one...

I just love that you think I'd even reply to Ray or take his money. That's just precious... It would also take me about 5 minutes to fix that Jade and make it suck a bit less. It should be quite clear now that the Stax mafia doesn't care about money and the end result is much better than the LNS or even the HE90. This is also fully reversible so if I get some HE90 drivers I just need to unscrew the adapter plates, desolder the cable and swap in the new parts. The LNS these drivers came out of is only good for parts anyway so why not do something like this. Welcome to the dark side. The main reason why I'm so disappointed by both the SZ3 007's and the 009 is that all the great Stax models have had this smoothness to some degree dating all the way back to the SR-1. All the greats, SR-3, SR-Sigma, SR-Lambda, SR-X Mk3 PRO, Lambda Nova Signature and SR-Omega all have this trait coupled with some very different personalities. In fact, the more I listen to my "new" SR-Omega the more I think the 009 is just wrong. I've spent a lot of time in the last week reconditioning the original earpads to make them supple again (bloody vinyl...) and this has made fixed some of the brightness issues I've had with my other sets. Btw. Now you really need to modify the 727...

This ED-1 is tuned for the L-Pro but none of those around so SR-202's should be close enough and my pile of other Lambdas.

I'm going to watch it now.

Sorry about the blurry picture but using these settings handheld is a pain. Never can find the bloody tripod mounting plug when I need it... That is indeed a Lambda Nova Signature driver mounted in the HE90 housing. I had enough parts to build a He90 except the drivers and given they make the SR-009 seem cheap this idea came up and Wachara helped me realize it. It took a lot of measuring but the mounting plates fit perfectly and the only change I'd make is to move the opening a few mm upwards to make it easier to fit the newer Lambda drivers. The HE90 cable is very expensive but the much cheaper HE60 cable works much better for this mod and allows me to mount the drivers the right way around. This is by no means a cheap set of headphones as these the last set of HE90 frames available anywhere and total cost is north of 4K$... As for the sound, well I've always disliked the stock HE90 as there are certain things they just can't do. Deep bass is one of the main problems so the first track I listened to was the same one I used back in 2005 to test that HE90. Passed with flying colors and none of the overhang found in the Lambdas either. Another issue with the HE90 is the very diffused soundstage, I call it listening in a fog as you can't pick where the instruments are. Now the cause for this is twofold, the drivers are a major culprit but the non-angled design of the HE90 earpads and cups is also a factor so with these drivers the sound is not as sharp as the Lambdas but it's not a big difference. I'm rather sensitive to this and it doesn't bother me at all. On the whole I'm very pleased with how these sound. The detail is stunning which goes to show how good the Lmabdas could be and it's also how smooth the sound it from top to bottom. I'm a very happy bunny...

Now, what's wrong with this picture?

I've used pretty much every transformers I could lay my hands on over the past years but only the Lundahl's and some old Koss transformers have ended up as finished boxes. All of these were output transformers so you wire them up backwards, the B+ becomes the ground for the bias supply and the 8ohm taps are the input. You leave the transformers as if they were intended for triodes so all other taps are left unused. Of those two transformers the AS-250 has a ratio of 1:25 on the 8ohm tap and the Heathkit has a ratio of 1:31 on the 8 ohm tap. You can lower the ratio by using the 16 ohm taps. The way I build my transformers is just speaker connectors directly into the transformer and the output from them is taken directly to the Stax socket. Nothing else in there and I try to keep wires as short as is possible.

Ties in with what Dusty just said, Parade's End. Utterly brilliant to say the least.

I just checked and I found a few more of the latest version. These have the LED driver circuit so no need to mess with NE-2's for power indication.

Haven't tried it yet as I still have to refurb the ED-1. Bloody low voltage circuits so nothing's in stock for them...

...at least the shipping is free... Something John will appreciate, I now have a matching SRM-Monitor setup here with a ED-1 and SRM-1 Mk2 PP, both in lovely black with gold lettering.

The lowest I've gone was 1:12 and it was just fine with more powerful amps. The 1:25 standard (some were even 1:30) heralds from the 60's so this ratio is utter overkill now. I should have a few boards left but I'll have to check. I found one which is going into this SRD-7 that I'm converting but there should be a few more sitting in a box somewhere.

Glad you guys could see how Sennheiser operate. They won't tell you anything without a NDA....

Well I don't have any pennies and our "króna's" will probably just damage the spikes. They are tough little buggers... I've never understood the point of those crazy expensive racks so I just use what ever that works. It has been strengthened quite a bit though.

While the spikes may look awesome they are an utter pain if you have to move the amp and they will damage most surfaces. I use the spike cups I got with my ES-1 to make sure they don't damage my 100$ IKEA rack but this also means I never, ever move the amp. Sadly mine is the older version so it can't use the rubber feet... Why there is no love for silver I just don't get. It looks amazing in contrast with the rest of the chassis. Can't wait to finish disassembling and cleaning this SR-Omega and fire it up...

It's indeed not always better to know. It was pure hell for me to buy a new source a year ago as there was nothing that was good enough and had the specs I wanted.

I would install nylon washers on those screws as that is just an accident waiting to happen. The 1N4757 could be the culprit as the uneven PSU voltages could be causing your problems. The caps might also be damaged from the time it all went arcy sparky...

The voltages being off isn't a good sign. AC in is a bit high but that will only cause a bit more heat so nothing to worry about. What I'd check are the zener strings and measure each step against ground. Personally I'd just replace them to eliminate a possible cause for the voltage difference.

Not supposed to happen. What are the psu voltage readings?