spritzer

I've used pretty much every transformers I could lay my hands on over the past years but only the Lundahl's and some old Koss transformers have ended up as finished boxes. All of these were output transformers so you wire them up backwards, the B+ becomes the ground for the bias supply and the 8ohm taps are the input. You leave the transformers as if they were intended for triodes so all other taps are left unused. Of those two transformers the AS-250 has a ratio of 1:25 on the 8ohm tap and the Heathkit has a ratio of 1:31 on the 8 ohm tap. You can lower the ratio by using the 16 ohm taps. The way I build my transformers is just speaker connectors directly into the transformer and the output from them is taken directly to the Stax socket. Nothing else in there and I try to keep wires as short as is possible.

Ties in with what Dusty just said, Parade's End. Utterly brilliant to say the least.

I just checked and I found a few more of the latest version. These have the LED driver circuit so no need to mess with NE-2's for power indication.

Haven't tried it yet as I still have to refurb the ED-1. Bloody low voltage circuits so nothing's in stock for them...

...at least the shipping is free... Something John will appreciate, I now have a matching SRM-Monitor setup here with a ED-1 and SRM-1 Mk2 PP, both in lovely black with gold lettering.

The lowest I've gone was 1:12 and it was just fine with more powerful amps. The 1:25 standard (some were even 1:30) heralds from the 60's so this ratio is utter overkill now. I should have a few boards left but I'll have to check. I found one which is going into this SRD-7 that I'm converting but there should be a few more sitting in a box somewhere.

Glad you guys could see how Sennheiser operate. They won't tell you anything without a NDA....

Well I don't have any pennies and our "króna's" will probably just damage the spikes. They are tough little buggers... I've never understood the point of those crazy expensive racks so I just use what ever that works. It has been strengthened quite a bit though.

While the spikes may look awesome they are an utter pain if you have to move the amp and they will damage most surfaces. I use the spike cups I got with my ES-1 to make sure they don't damage my 100$ IKEA rack but this also means I never, ever move the amp. Sadly mine is the older version so it can't use the rubber feet... Why there is no love for silver I just don't get. It looks amazing in contrast with the rest of the chassis. Can't wait to finish disassembling and cleaning this SR-Omega and fire it up...

It's indeed not always better to know. It was pure hell for me to buy a new source a year ago as there was nothing that was good enough and had the specs I wanted.

I would install nylon washers on those screws as that is just an accident waiting to happen. The 1N4757 could be the culprit as the uneven PSU voltages could be causing your problems. The caps might also be damaged from the time it all went arcy sparky...

The voltages being off isn't a good sign. AC in is a bit high but that will only cause a bit more heat so nothing to worry about. What I'd check are the zener strings and measure each step against ground. Personally I'd just replace them to eliminate a possible cause for the voltage difference.

Not supposed to happen. What are the psu voltage readings?

Balanced is most definitely overrated in the general sense but I still fail to see why the bloody amp wasn't just made balanced through out. Team overkill would never have done something like this... The output impedance will be a factor in terms of SPL but only a bit. Easiest would be to just measure the output but it's a bit of a pain. The GS-X is a hell of an amp but it was just the only fully DC coupled discrete amp I could think of. The Luxman amps appear to have AC coupled outputs as there are some suspicious looking caps near the output.

Two gang volume control means it's only stereo. Why they took what is essentially a balanced input stage and then fed it through a stereo volume control and then onto a quad output stage is just odd. Why not go all the way and go balanced through out? As for the capacitor output, this is used to block the natural DC offset of the output stage. This is a common feature in Bryston designs so I'm not surprised but it only takes a few parts to make a servo which is completely transparent (certainly more so than a PSU capacitor) and means the output can be DC coupled. Amps like the GS-X do it like this so more transparent. I do agree with Ari that RCA inputs are often badly catered for but I've all but given up on them anyway. Why bother with them when one can go fully balanced...

There is special stage to do inverting after the volume control. My gripe is that they could just have married a balanced input buffer with a quad pot and had a fully balanced amp.

Is it just me or what's the point of this amp? Why on earth would anybody build something like this? So a fully balanced amp except it isn't since the input section is single ended and with only a two gang volume control which then feeds to two amp sections per channel. It's get better though as they capacitor couple the output so one gets to enjoy the sound of a quad of 4700uf/35V electrolytic caps. I truly don't understand this amp or the logic behind it.

That has to be the most powerful 30W amp in the world so I think he'll be just fine.

Sure, why not. Interesting to see if they claim the amp is truly balanced.

It does flow both ways and the shield is connected to ground on one end so it's really connected on both ends minus the miniscule resistance in the wire. I do file this tweak under the "won't hurt" category but feel free to use directional cables any way you want.

Not sure if you need to jailbrake first but I used to do this all the time on my 3GS. First you need tiny umbrella to act as a firewall by copying the tags from your ipad and thus allow you to install old revisions. It's pretty easy if you do it before the update.

594-VR37000004704JR5 is a good one and what I use. Tolerance doesn't matter with this stuff.

It's me who's holding up the Megatron as I'm waiting on more PCB designs before making a bulk order. Lack of time to make those but I'm getting close.

4M7 or 5M, it doesn't matter but do use one which is rated for 600V.