spritzer

I do have one RK27 sitting here so I might use it but I just got these lovely PCB's for the Alpha pots that I'm dying to use...

Here is something indeed a bit different... http://imgur.com/QfqFu'>

Go team electrostatic!!!

Assuming you are running the LED at 20mA you can just feed the 12VDC off the +15VDC line through a 150ohm resistor.

The only thing to add is this:

Kevin did buy that as he's getting something else for Christmas. I can supply you but the shipping isn't exactly cheap even with DHL,UPS and Fedex offering discount rates.

I still think Krell just had a few thousand of those CDE caps sitting there and decided to cram the amp full of them...

Yeah sane thing here. I'll just stick with the Panasonic's and waste the rest of the money on the Megatron PCB heading my way...

The amp board is just about ready so I'll probably be ordering prototypes before Christmas.

One likes his film caps...

It's on the HV line so that would be the most obvious point of failure. As to why it's happening it can be any number of things.

In

You can clean the DACT by taking it apart but it will never be truly noise free. Those plastic housings are just about useless...

Stax have used the same Omron relay since the 90's with no issues I've heard of.

Silver is cool...

Fuck!!!! I don't need more headphones... I don't need more headphones...

The ECL86 stocks are dwindling but they still can be found. Sennheiser have dropped them as replacements for the HEV90 for the PCL86 which require rewiring of the amp boards. "Something" happened in 2005 which made them react like that... The HE90 doesn't really care for amps that are too honest. It is a highly flawed transducer engineered for a certain sound so I'd use the Aristaeus with it.

If you take care with the grease application and isolate the screw then it should be just fine. This is how Stax did it on the SRM-T2...

They fit perfectly in all Stax sockets so no need to worry.

The sinks are not grounded so you can just use the shoulder bits for the screw and plenty of goop.

That's what I've been using for years now. Runs a bit cooler.

The went holes will help but it is also a good idea to lift the sinks off the board a bit.

I just measured mine through the top panel and got 62-70°C. This is after about 30 minutes in chassis which is not the best in terms of cooling. Large drifts in offset and balance could be tied to how the output devices are attached to the heatsinks. What interface did you use?

That one quite bad as well so I prefer the WPI plug. That shipping is messed up as it would easily fit in one of the flatrate boxes.