spritzer

Mine has probably been the most trouble of the lot which is all down to fucked up transformers causing a lot of damage. Haven't heard about any major issues with the other ones. Makes me wonder though how many dared to attack the chassis KG had made and modify it? The amp really needs a power light and a front mounted switch... Moving it is bad enough but I have to ship it to Spain. Took me two weeks to find a box big enough and strong enough to do it...

That's a shame that the RS stock was a glitch. The part I'm looking at is the ST BUL216 which might just work. The spec sheet is quite poor so it has to be tested.

Probably more than 30 now and the only one sold was the first amp Andy built. I just bought some PEEK screws so it is time to strip mind down and fix the small issues I have with it.

It never ceases to amaze me how adamant stupid people can be that they are right...

I have the E-P1 and it sucks at low light but it is a great little camera in most other areas.

I had one board which just didn't work no matter how many parts I swapped out. I'm sure there are a bunch of these sitting in a warehouse somewhere so it is entirely possible for people to have some incoming. I'm also looking into subs but I've found nothing in a fully isolated package that is half as good.

The output capacitance of the IXYS is much higher, the 4686A is almost as good as tubes in this regard. High output capacitance is in some ways similar to high output impedance in dynamic amps and is best avoided. That said, we can only use what parts there are.

Yeah but if we spec 10% or even 5% parts then it should be close enough. Still 560V is still a lot closer than what Stax get with their unregulated PSU's and a simple voltage divider for the bias.

Not a common problem I'm afraid. Should be completely even as the drivers are matched into pairs.

So the PSU is pretty much finished: The old version was 9" by 7.5" exactly. This one is 6.92" by 6.56". I call that a result... Changed a few things, isolated diodes for the HV section, 270V zener on each side to be able to use KSA1156's instead of the 1486's. The NPN is the Fairchild part which was always a sub. LV supply main filter caps are now 15mm in diameter, 7.5mm pitch 3300uf/25V. There is a Panasonic FC which fits this. The LV output caps are 330uf/25V, 10mm in diameter and a 3.5mm pitch.

Very nice build, what case is that? It's next on the list and I'll start shrinking it today. I had done a "mafia version" earlier but I'll see if I can make this one better.

A group buy on transformers sounds like a good idea and the PSU board will be even smaller.

First episode of the Vikings, made me want to smash the screen with anger... Wasn't expecting much but they can't even get basic details right such as the names and how the þing's worked. Also why was everybody speaking Swedish? In the Flesh was a far better view, nice take on the whole zombie aftermath.

Feel free to run a groupbuy. I'll be ordering boards for me this week to do a test run and to try out all the new parts. I'll do both 450V and 500V versions just to make sure. Here is the latest pic of the PSU rework. Edit: Kevin's pics are better. Epic pain to say the least. This shows the board before I shrink the border but the space saving is about 5cm in width and 2.5cm in height. The only sacrifices made were to the LV supply and they were just to remove the heatsinks (which were only there for people who wanted to power something else off it as well as the KGSSHV) and use smaller non snap in filter caps. Needs to be checked about 500 times before production though. It's one complicated beast...

Happy Birthday little one.

Well I did save 5mm...

We don't really do BOM's but here is the board as it stands now: I think I've gone as far as I can with shrinking it down but I might be able to scrape some mm's off it at the bottom. Here is the new fet: http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP/PMBFJ620115/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui0jglBrupTXFF4afbDGBI0NwQMb%2fYXeEA%3d Here is the 2SA1486 replacement: http://www2.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=STN9360virtualkey51120000virtualkey511-STN9360 There is also the 511-STN9260 which is cheaper but has a lower HfE. Should work just fine though.

My buddy has the sloped Dynaudio's and they are very nice speakers. Software volume control will work just fine but I built him a passive volume control just in case.

We should be good for a few years now. I've updated the board to include the dual fet available at Mouser but they haven't been tested yet. Should be just fine but it's a tiny SMD part so it will take a steady hand to install. They have a huge stock and then there are always the Fairchild N-channel parts. Dirt cheap and about 250,000 in stock of one type... This version also added support for the SMD replacements for the 1486 and they are brand new at Mouser. The output devices are a problem though. Mouser has some slightly unusual parts in stock that I'm going to try and report back. I was also looking around and there are some new parts coming that might work. Ohh and reworking the PSU is an epic pain...

Sony can make some very nice equipment when they go all out. That series was awesome in many ways, ditto the R1 and R10's.

Good news everyone!!! Well there are a few of them actually... Kevin has tested the 01N100D's as output devices and they work just fine after a rebias so they can be used. Ceramic insulators are needed but it is better than nothing. Kevin has also updated the design to use available sand from Mouser so no more 2705 shortages. SMD posts also added to sub the 1486's to the latest layout. We are also working on subs for the LSK389 to make sourcing the parts easier. Last but not least, I finally cleared up the onboard PCB design and shaved 20mm off one axis and 25mm off the other one. Not too shabby so the boards will be cheaper and easier to mount into boxes. I also have a small offboard version ready for checking but it is 450V limited with 2SA1968's and intended for one of my personal projects. Might look at the standard one when I have time though. Edit: I'm also going to shrink the PSU a bit.

Ditto. They are the only ones available here is my petite 16.5 size...

The DY294 is good for checking basic parameters and for high voltage sand it is ideal as nobody would ever rebrand some nice HV stuff. Low voltage is more of a problem though as there are so many similar parts out there.

No need to worry about the PS2 box as we can make a far superior bias supply, hell we could do a fully regulated one.

You could just build your own transformer box. The trafo's are 1:60-80 which is high but there is probably something out there. Edit: I did some checking and Lundahl 9202 would work. It's 23K/8 so 1:53 which is enough. Should easily trump what ever transformer they are using...