spritzer

So the PSU is pretty much finished: The old version was 9" by 7.5" exactly. This one is 6.92" by 6.56". I call that a result... Changed a few things, isolated diodes for the HV section, 270V zener on each side to be able to use KSA1156's instead of the 1486's. The NPN is the Fairchild part which was always a sub. LV supply main filter caps are now 15mm in diameter, 7.5mm pitch 3300uf/25V. There is a Panasonic FC which fits this. The LV output caps are 330uf/25V, 10mm in diameter and a 3.5mm pitch.

Very nice build, what case is that? It's next on the list and I'll start shrinking it today. I had done a "mafia version" earlier but I'll see if I can make this one better.

A group buy on transformers sounds like a good idea and the PSU board will be even smaller.

First episode of the Vikings, made me want to smash the screen with anger... Wasn't expecting much but they can't even get basic details right such as the names and how the þing's worked. Also why was everybody speaking Swedish? In the Flesh was a far better view, nice take on the whole zombie aftermath.

Feel free to run a groupbuy. I'll be ordering boards for me this week to do a test run and to try out all the new parts. I'll do both 450V and 500V versions just to make sure. Here is the latest pic of the PSU rework. Edit: Kevin's pics are better. Epic pain to say the least. This shows the board before I shrink the border but the space saving is about 5cm in width and 2.5cm in height. The only sacrifices made were to the LV supply and they were just to remove the heatsinks (which were only there for people who wanted to power something else off it as well as the KGSSHV) and use smaller non snap in filter caps. Needs to be checked about 500 times before production though. It's one complicated beast...

Happy Birthday little one.

Well I did save 5mm...

We don't really do BOM's but here is the board as it stands now: I think I've gone as far as I can with shrinking it down but I might be able to scrape some mm's off it at the bottom. Here is the new fet: http://www2.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NXP/PMBFJ620115/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui0jglBrupTXFF4afbDGBI0NwQMb%2fYXeEA%3d Here is the 2SA1486 replacement: http://www2.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=STN9360virtualkey51120000virtualkey511-STN9360 There is also the 511-STN9260 which is cheaper but has a lower HfE. Should work just fine though.

My buddy has the sloped Dynaudio's and they are very nice speakers. Software volume control will work just fine but I built him a passive volume control just in case.

We should be good for a few years now. I've updated the board to include the dual fet available at Mouser but they haven't been tested yet. Should be just fine but it's a tiny SMD part so it will take a steady hand to install. They have a huge stock and then there are always the Fairchild N-channel parts. Dirt cheap and about 250,000 in stock of one type... This version also added support for the SMD replacements for the 1486 and they are brand new at Mouser. The output devices are a problem though. Mouser has some slightly unusual parts in stock that I'm going to try and report back. I was also looking around and there are some new parts coming that might work. Ohh and reworking the PSU is an epic pain...

Sony can make some very nice equipment when they go all out. That series was awesome in many ways, ditto the R1 and R10's.

Good news everyone!!! Well there are a few of them actually... Kevin has tested the 01N100D's as output devices and they work just fine after a rebias so they can be used. Ceramic insulators are needed but it is better than nothing. Kevin has also updated the design to use available sand from Mouser so no more 2705 shortages. SMD posts also added to sub the 1486's to the latest layout. We are also working on subs for the LSK389 to make sourcing the parts easier. Last but not least, I finally cleared up the onboard PCB design and shaved 20mm off one axis and 25mm off the other one. Not too shabby so the boards will be cheaper and easier to mount into boxes. I also have a small offboard version ready for checking but it is 450V limited with 2SA1968's and intended for one of my personal projects. Might look at the standard one when I have time though. Edit: I'm also going to shrink the PSU a bit.

Ditto. They are the only ones available here is my petite 16.5 size...

The DY294 is good for checking basic parameters and for high voltage sand it is ideal as nobody would ever rebrand some nice HV stuff. Low voltage is more of a problem though as there are so many similar parts out there.

No need to worry about the PS2 box as we can make a far superior bias supply, hell we could do a fully regulated one.

You could just build your own transformer box. The trafo's are 1:60-80 which is high but there is probably something out there. Edit: I did some checking and Lundahl 9202 would work. It's 23K/8 so 1:53 which is enough. Should easily trump what ever transformer they are using...

Ditto on wanting to try the new Floats but not a chance in hell I'd pay for them. The PS2's are a torture chamber for my head which is why I prefer the PS0 which does fit me better.

No doubt the new transformers help but even off an amp the Jecklin's are lackluster. That's a proper amp and not the steaming pile of crap Jecklin sold back in the day. The PS2's never fit me properly but the PS0 did so fit issues aren't exactly new with this line.

These are the Germans remember... they are an optional extra. Justin is right though, the PS0 had some little bit of style and the PMB versions are nice to look at but this just looks like a Home Depot cluster fuck.

It's certainly a grounding issue or something is radiating an awful amount so the headphones are picking it up. If you have something earthed then run wires to that and see if it fixes the issue.

Well somebody has to keep some in stock for the apocalypse. I also have some BH's to build...

The connector is a multipin job but they just use 5 of them. Not compatible with Stax in any way, 1500V bias and four times the voltage swing... Horrendously expensive too.

Most of the sand for the original BH is either all gone or almost gone.

Happy Birthday Al!!

It's most likely the servo for the output stage was off. Basically the "batteries" need to be adjusted to 740V and then the servo can kick in and null the output. If it isn't at 740V then you can hear noises like that.